The Molise region is the second smallest region in Italy after Aosta. Molise has yet to be discovered, so it's a region worth visiting before tourist hordes descend. The Molise is sometimes referred to as "between the mountains and the sea" as the small region contains both a little seacoast and a mountainous center. The Molise is noted for its cheeses, its regional cuisine and its rural atmosphere.

Molise offers an amazing variety of opportunities despite the dimension of its territory: it ranges from the beaches of Termoli to the ski resort of Campitello Matese, from the Natural Oasis in Guardiaregia to the medieval fortifications and villages, from the archaeological finds dating back to Samnite and Roman period straight to the Baroque. 

A concentrate of nature, beauty and tradition that has preserved the charme and the appeal of a land to discover.  In spite of the development of the industrial activities, Molise is still linked to an agricultural economy.   Thanks to this tradition, the handicraft is still predominant among the region’s activities.

At other times during your journey you will want to take in the inland cities of Isernia, and Campobasso, both delightful in their own ways, and the sea coast city of Termoli.

Termoli beach

Termoli - old town center

Campobasso has endured its share of devastating and not so devastating earthquakes, particularly in 1815, leading to the abandonment of the upper town, and the destruction or near destruction of some of its most important buildings.

However, there is much yet to see in addition to the castle.   Many of the citizens are keen gardeners who grow many rare plants.

Architecturally, one can start at the top and work down.   Across from the castles front gate is the Chiesa Santa Maria del Monte built in the 11^th century, with a bell tower (campanile) that was added in 1970.   Inside there are lively frescoes done in a modern style, painted in 1944 and 1945 by a local artist, Amedeo Trivisonno. 

San Giorgio - Campobasso

medival city 

• The 10th century church, San Giorgio had much of its facade shaken loose in one earthquake. Another church, San Bartolomeo, built in the 11th century has been de-sanctified.   Keep a look out to for Chiesa San Leonardo, originally built in the 13th century, but renovated in 1456 after an earthquake and again in the 1920s.

• The city's cathedral, Santa Maria Maggiore was built in 1504, but utterly destroyed by the 1815 quake. However it was rebuilt between 1815 and 1829.

• Chiesa Santa Maria della Croce, originally built in 1348 was destroyed by earthquake in 1805, but has also been rebuilt. It's dome is regarded as one of the best in Molise.

• In 1572, the Chiesa Sant'Antonio was built in the Renaissance style.   It seems to have survived the earthquakes well.

As Molise's capital city, there are a number of beautiful (and not so beautiful) government buildings in the lower quarter.   But, the one that is a must, is the Museum of Archeology with artifacts and art that dates back to Samnium times.   The piazza's are pleasant, and give way to neighborhoods where there are a number of delightful restaurants, cafes and shops.

The history of the city is unexceptional within the overall history of Molise.  However, Campobasso was originally a Samnite settlement, probably established to control the Matese-Cortile, the most important of the tratturi, the city fell under the control of Rome who finally defeated the Samnites in 82 BC after a series of prolonged wars starting in the 4th Century BC.

Even in Lombard times, the city was divided between its upper area - the Campus de Prata - and its lower area - the Campus Vassus (later Bassus).   

The Castello Monforte, with six very imposing towers, it was started by the local ruler Nicola II Monforte over Lombard of Norman ruins and was built over an extended time during the 14th and 15th centuries on the ruins of the much older fortifications built and rebuilt from the earliest days.  

Castello Monforte - Campobasso

• Campobasso's warly purposes lasted until the end of World War II, when it became home to "Canada Town" because the Canadian army used it as one of their principle bases during the Italian Campaign.

• Campobasso is definitely worth a visit, and its easy to get to from anywhere in central Italy. A good off season time to go would be the "Easter" season because you can observe the most important festival in Campobasso, the Misteri.

Some of the must see sights include the two Roman theater, a Roman amphitheater and a Samnian meeting house near Venafro, snug in the folds of the Mainard and Matese mountain ranges (along the SS85).   Above the town look for a Church in the Romanesque style, with Gothic renovations and 15th century frescoes.    If you have time, walk to the adjacent 10th century castle, then through the woods to the Chiesa Santa Marie delle Grazie, inside a hillside grotto, or cave.

The Pignatelli castle is located near the town of Monteroduni. The castle, of longobarda age accommodates inside a museum of objects belonged to the noble Pignatelli family, but also a museum of the civilization peasant with all the ancestral tools and the objects of prehistorical age finds again in the last archaeological diggings in the country.also on the SS85. 

Pignatelli castle - Monteoduni

inside the Pignatelli castle - particular 

Heading toward Isernia you will traverse the mountains on a combination of bridged highways and long tunnels.   Before the turnoff for Isernia at Volturno your eyes will be rivetted by the breathtaking site of the Volturno valley. 

The Castle is situated in a dominant position overlooking the whole valley of Volturno river. The castle, today a multi-purpose building, equipped for stays, meetings and exhibitions, has elegant period furniture.     Interiorly there are two courtyards on different levels and terraces offering the opportunity of doing many activities. 

Cerro al Volturno - Isernia

The castle, in the High Volturno's Valley, is surrounded by many attractive historical, natural and architectural destinations.   Among which: the National Park of Abruzzo with Lago Castel San Vincenzo (Castle St. Vincent's Lake); Volturno's springs; the thousand-year-old St. Vincent's Abbey with the adjacent archaeological excavations; Scapoli's reed pipes with the craftsmanship shops and the communal museum.    Only 15min away is the ski station of Roccaraso.

Before reaching Isernia, we recommend a side trip to the ancient Samnite town of Aquilonia, now gone.    What remains is a staggeringly large, mortarless wall built of polygonal shaped blocks in the 4^th century BC, some 15 m (10 feet) thick, 3.5 meters (12 feet) high and several kilometers long.

The Fraterna Fountain in Isernia, was constructed

 in the 13th century with columns, inscriptions, and other architectural fragments from Roman times.

A spoliated Roman statue - Isernia

Those of you familiar with Umberto Eco's book (and a movie of the same name), The Name of the Rose, will want to travel to Castel San Vincenzo (Castel St Vincent), sitting on a gorgeous high plain in the snow-capped mountains.   This 9th century (and now restored) Benedictine Abbey and the town that grew up around it are not to be missed.

Saipins e di Saepinum

San Vincenzo Abbey - Volturno

San Vincenzo al Volturno-crypt paintings

Outside the cities, other points of interest include the oldest paleolithic settlement ever found in Europe located near Vasto, which was only unearthed in 1978.   Dating from between the 10th and 9th centuries BC, the settlement covers over 300,000 square feet, a large portion of which can be viewed from suspended sidewalks.   Many artifacts remain on the site, but many have made their way to a special museum at the convent of Santa Maria Assunte.

The highest settlement of ancient Italy is Pietrabbondante.   Unsullied in every way, the town and its surrounding area, with views of mountains and valleys, will take your breath away.  A restored Roman theatre and other monuments and ruins are open to public access.

For travelers who are seeking an authentic Italian experience, the word is "Go" and go soon, while the region remains untrammeled by hordes of tourists, and you can claim bragging rights that belong to those who discover a fabulous place that hardly anyone knows the name of. Yet!

Trip can be varied according to your needs

Trip can be varied according to your needs

Roman theater -  Pietrabbondante