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Lazio
The name of the
region also survives in the tribal designation of the ancient
population of Latins, from whom the Romans originated.
In Roman mythology, the shadowy king Latinus allegedly gave his
name to the region. The name is most likely derived from
the Latin word "latus", meaning "wide", expressing the idea of "flat
land" (in contrast to the local Sabine high country) but the
name may originate from an earlier, non Indo-European one.
Latium,
originally inhabited by the Latins, extended its boundaries to
the territories of the Sanniti, the Marsi
and Campania thanks to
the Roman conquests, taking in the lands of the Ernici, the
Equi, the Aurunci and Volsci. This territory was
called Latium Novi to differentiate it from
Latium veteres, which indicated the original boundaries.
A landscape in Lazio: part of Tivoli,
near Rome, seen from the upper terraces of the Villa d'Este.
During the Augustus' administrative system,
Latium
- together with the present region of
Campania
- was the
first Italian region.
After the Gothic war (535-554) and the
Byzantine conquest, this region regained its freedom,
because the "Roman Duchy" became the property of
the Eastern Emperor. However the long wars against
the Longobards impaired the region which was
seized by the Roman Bishop who already had several
properties in those territories.
The strengthening of the religious and ecclesiastical
aristocracy led to continuous power struggles between lords and
the Roman bishop until the middle of the XVI century.
Innocent III tried to strengthen his own territorial
power, wishing to assert his authority on the provincial
administrations of Tuscia,
Campagna
and
Marittima through the Church's representatives, in order
to tear down the Colonna's power. Other popes tried
to do the same.
During the Avignon period the feudal lords'
power increased thanks to the absence of the Pope from
Rome. Small communes, and Rome above all, opposed
the lords power raise and with Cola di Rienzo
tried to put themselves up as antagonists of the ecclesiastical
power. Between 1353 and 1367 the restoration of the
pontifical authority brought to a total retrieval of Latium and
the rest of the Pontifical States.
From the middle of the XVI century the pontifical power's
victory unified Latium's history with that of the Pontifical
States becoming the provincial administrations of St.
Peter's estate, with a governor in Viterbo
and of Marittima and
Campagna
and one in
Frosinone.
After the short Roman Republic and the region's
annexation to France, by Napoleon I, Latium became
again part of the Pontifical States. In 1870 when the
French troops abandoned Rome, General Cadorna
entered the pontifical territory, occupying Rome on the 20th of
September and Latium was enclosed within the Kingdom of
Italy.
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Bolsena
lake
Comuni
bordering the lake
The
following comuni are situated on the shore of Lake Bolsena:
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Bolsena,the
town, rises on the hills of Volsini, on the banks of the
lake which gives its name and is famous for the
miracle of Corpus Domini and for the plastic tables
carried out by observers on the eve of the Festival of Saint
Christine, patroness of the city.
Etruscan origin, was called Velsna and was one of the
richest and powerful town of Etruria.
Conquered by the romans and flatterned to the ground, once
rebuilt it took on the name Volsinii.
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Bolsena
lake |
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Bolsena |
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Marta,
a village known for its festivals in honour of the Madonna
del Monte, called Festa delle Passate, which is
often called Barabbata. The inhabitants are devoted
primarily to agriculture,
livestock or fishing.
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Valentano
is known for having given fame to Paolo Ruffini, after having a long time been the center of the
Farnese epoch,
following the destruction of Castro (1649) and the dissolution of the
eponymousduchy. The old castle of Farnèse is the location of the museum of
the prehistory of Tuscia.
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Gradoli
is famous for its oil and wine, particularly
the wine liqueur called Aleatico. This location also
preserves an imposing Farnese palace, which was built for
the cardinal Alexandre Farnese, who became pope under the name
Paul III.
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San
Lorenzo Nuovo, rebuilt at the end of the 18th
century and known for its modern architecture, is renowned
for its potato gnocchi which can be tasted on the occasion
of the sagra which is held during the second week of
August.
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Other nearby
towns with interesting history are Sorano
and Pitigliano.
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Bracciano,
a town that is known for its Castle, and a medieval one at that!!
It was also the scene of the Tom & Katie Cruise wedding
so
there was a little intrigue, especially when you see the size of
Bracciano! It was the event of the century to have
that many people here at once!
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Castello
Orsini Odescalchi |
Bracciano is a
hill town and rests above the lake so the views are wonderful.
From the central car park, we venture up the hill towards the
castle. Opening time, 3:00pm There are quite a
few cute little shops along the way.
Now Bracciano,
though a nice town, doesn't offer the wonderful lakefront dining
one would expect, only 10 minutes drive away is Anguillara ,
La Nepitella, a cute little place right on the lake, for lunch of
a light salads with some local lake fish, grilled or fried.
Either way is a great choice as they are excellent.
The views of the lake with the swans floating by and the local
fisherman out in their boats makes a perfect setting.
After lunch, we
head back to Bracciano, to tour the castle.
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Rome
Our
service will take you on the discovery of the true treasures of
Rome. In this city a phenomenal concentration of history,
cultural, legend and monuments coexists with an equally
phenomenal concentration of people busily going about their
daily life.
From
the
Imperial Rome of Julius Caesar
to the City of
Popes.
Immerse yourself in the past touching upon the various periods
of a city that has left its mark in history.
The
Classic Itinerary comes upon a part of the antique
Papal city including attractions such as:
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Forum
was the centre of the public life of the ancient city; it
developed after the reclaiming of the marshy valley that
extended from the Palatine and
Capitoline hills in the 7th
century BC and the last monument – the commemorative
column of the emperor Phocas – was
erected there in the 7th century AC, exactly
1200 years later.
With the
passing of time and the increase in the population, the
area was extended with the addition of Imperial
Forums that also contributed in stressing the
greatness of the empire. Later, as
decline set in, the Forum was abandoned and used as a
source of building material. When the first archaeological
excavations began in the late 18th
century, its monuments, by then mostly underground, had
been invaded by cattle and flocks and used as pasture
land. |
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Forum with
Basilica Ulpia
and Column of Trajan |
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Forum of
Augustus |
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Forums
of Trajan and Augustus
It is
probable that Domitian's projects were more ambitious than
the building of the small "Forum of Nerva",
and probably under his reign they started to remove the
small saddle that united the Capitoline Hill
to the Quirinal Hill, thus blocking the
Forums towards Campus Martius, near to
modern Piazza Venezia.
The project was resumed by Trajan with the
construction of Trajan's Forum between 112 and 113.
The occasion was the conquest of Dacia,
whose spoils paid for this celebration of the military
conquests of Rome.
The preparation of the Forum required a lot of work.
It was necessary to remove the hilly saddle, and to
support the cut of Quirinal Hill through the building of
the Trajan's market. The Forum square
was closed by the Basilica Ulpia, with
Trajan's Column at its back. In front of
the basilica, a monumental façade was the background of a
large, equestrian sculpture of the Emperor.
The last Forum was also the biggest and greatest. |
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View of
Trajan's Forum |
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Detail
map of the Forums |
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Roman Forum
of
Caesar
is the most important archaeological area in the city, the
ideal place to understand that having a “historical sense”
means, as the great writer T.S. Eliot says...'feeling that
the people of the past are our contemporaries'
Julius
Caesar decided to construct a large forum bearing
his name. This forum was inaugurated in 46 BC,
though it was probably incomplete at this time and was
finished later by Augustus. |
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Forum of
Caesar |
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Forum of
Caesar with overlay of how it was |
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The
Forum of Caesar was constructed as an extension to
the Roman Forum, and was used as a
replacement venue to the Roman Forum for public affairs as
well as government; it was also designed as a celebration
of Caesar's power. Caesar had placed, on the front of his
forum, a temple devoted to Venus Genitrix,
since Caesar's family (gens Julia) claimed to descend by
Venus through Aeneas. A statue
of Caesar himself riding Bucephalus, the
celebrated horse of Alexander the Great, was
placed in front of the temple, to symbolise absolute
power.
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Forum of
Ceasar |
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Bust
of Julius Ceasar |
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This
centralised vision corresponded to the ideological
function, following the propaganda of the
Hellenistic sanctuaries; also the choice of the
Forum site carried a meaning: the future dictator didn't
want to be far from the central power, represented in the
Curia, administration of justice and seat of
the Senate. In fact, not long before Caesar's death,
the Senate agreed to reconstruct the Curia on the site.
This was
also the political, religious and
commercial activities of ancient Rome took place.
The Romans charged their buildings with an important
function of propagandistic communication, aiming at
producing in the viewer a sense of admiration mixed with
fear. Besides the Curia we
find basilicas for business meetings,
temples, triumphal arches, monuments and
statues. The area was crossed by the Via
Sacra which was used for religious processions and
triumphal parades.
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Circus Maximus
(Latin for greatest circus, in Italian Circo Massimo) is
an ancient hippodrome and mass entertainment venue located
in Rome.
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Situated in the valley between the Aventine
and Palatine hills, the location was first
utilized for public games and entertainment by the
Etruscan kings of Rome. Certainly, the first games
of the Ludi Romani (Roman Games) were staged
at the location by Tarquinius Priscus, the
fifth Etruscan ruler of Rome.
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Imperial
Palace and Circus Maxium model |
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Somewhat later,
the Circus was the site of public games and festivals
influenced by the Greeks in the 2nd century BC.
Chariot racing was the most important event
at the Circus. The track could hold twelve chariots, and
the two sides of the track were separated by a raised
median termed the spina. The spina was
set slightly diagonally. |
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Statues of various
gods were set up on the spina, and Augustus
erected an Egyptian obelisk on it as well.
At either end of the spina was a turning post, the meta,
around which chariots made dangerous turns at speed.
On top of the spina, there were rotatable metal
dolphins that were turned down to mark laps around
the course. Chariot racing was an extemely
dangerous sport, frequently resulting in spectacular
crashes and quite possibly the death of one or more of the
contestants. |
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Circus
Maxium - model |
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Very little
now remains of the Circus, except for the now
grass-covered racing track and the spina. Some
of the starting gates remain, but most of the seating has
disappeared, the materials no doubt employed for building
other structures in medieval Rome.
This obelisk was removed in the 16th
century by Pope Sixtus V and placed in the
Piazza del Popolo. Excavation of
the site began in the 19th century, followed by
a partial restoration, but there are yet to be any truly
comprehensive excavations conducted within its grounds. |
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The
Circus Maximus retained the honour of being the
first and largest circus in Rome, but it was
not the only example: other Roman circuses included the
Circus Flaminius (in which the Ludi Plebeii
were held), the Circus of Maxentius and the
Circus of Nero.
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Sestertius
coin depicting Caracalla and the Circus Maximus with the
obelisk and the spina |
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The Circus
still occasionally entertains the Romans; being a large,
green area in the center of the city, it is often used for
concerts and meetings. The Rome concert of Live 8 (July 2,
2005) was celebrated here, as was the Italian World Cup
2006 victory, when over 700,000 people packed in to
celebrate.
On July 14, 2007 the British rock band Genesis
concluded the European leg of their Turn It On Again
tour by a free concert at Circo Maximus in front
of 500,000+ fans. |
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Today - Circus
Maximus is a park . |
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The building
is the imperial palace on the Palatine hill. |
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• Piazza Del
Campidoglio -
with its splendid view of the
Imperial City.
The
Capitoline Hill, between the Forum and the
Campus Martius, is one of the most famous
and highest of the seven hills of Rome. By the 16th
century, Capitolino had become Campidoglio in the Roman
dialect. Similarly, the English word capitol derives
from Capitoline. The Capitoline contains
relatively few ancient ground-level ruins, as they are
almost entirely covered up by Medieval palaces
(now the Capitoline Museums) that surround a piazza.
A significant portion of the architecture in this area was
designed by Michelangelo Buonarroti in 1536
- 1546. |
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Michelangelo's
systematizing of the Campidoglio,
engraved by
Étienne Dupérac, 1568.. |
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Stairway
leading up to the piazza. |
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At the
height of his fame he was commissioned by the
Farnese Pope Paul III, who wanted a symbol of the
new Rome to impress Charles V, who was
expected in 1538. Michelangelo's first designs for the
piazza and remodelling of the surrounding palazzos date
from 1536. He effectively reversed the classical
orientation of the Capitoline, in a symbolic gesture
turning Rome’s civic center to face away from the Roman
Forum and instead in the direction of Papal Rome
and the Christian church in the form of
St. Peter’s Basilica.
The sequence, Cordonata piazza and the central palazzo are
the first urban introduction of the "cult of the
axis" that was to occupy Italian garden plans and
reach fruition in France.
Executing the design was slow work: little was actually
completed in Michelangelo's lifetime (the ‘’Cordonata’’
was not in place when Emperor Charles arrived, and the
imperial party had to scramble up the slope from the Forum
to view the works in progress), but work continued
faithfully to his designs and the Campidoglio was
completed in the 17th century, except for the
paving design, which was to be finished three centuries
later. |
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Capitoline Museums (Italian Musei Capitolini) are
a group of art and archeological museums in Piazza del
Campidoglio, on top of the famous Capitoline Hill.
The museums are contained in three palazzi surrounding a
central trapezoidal piazza in a plan
conceived by Michelangelo. The history of the
museums can be traced to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV
donated a collection of important ancient bronzes to the
people of Rome and located them on Capitoline
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Hill.
Since then, the museums' collection has grown to
include a large number of ancient Roman
statues, inscriptions, and other
artifacts; a collection of medieval and
Renaissance art; and collections of jewels, coins,
and other items.
The
museums are owned and operated by the municipality
of Rome.The statue of a mounted rider in the centre
of the piazza is of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.
It is a copy, the original being housed on-site in
the Capitoline museum. Many Roman
statues were destroyed on the orders of Christian
Church authorities in the Middle Ages; this statue
was preserved in the erroneous belief that it
depicted the Emperor Constantine, who
made Christianity the official state religion of the
Roman empire.
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• The
Appian Way
walk along the original slab stones of the ancient
Appian Way is an ideal conclusion to a stay in
Rome and a last occasion to evoke historical memories in a
natural context of incredible beauty. The most ancient (4th
century BC) consular road is an outstanding example of the
practical genius of the Romans who conceived their road
system as a way of taking possession of the world and
dominating it. The great straight stretches allowed to
move troops rapidly and efficiently and favoured commerce.
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Appian way |
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In building
them the Romans were not conditioned by the layout of the
territory but actually modified it by reclaiming marshy
areas, building bridges and cutting hills. The
Regina Viarum (Queen of Roads), built by censor
Appius Claudius the Blind, after whom it was named, headed
south and over time was extended to reach Brindisi, the
gate to the East.
Walking
along the ancient road, made up of layers of different
materials, it becomes clear that the carriage way was wide
enough to allow traffic in opposite directions, and that
the wide sidewalks flanking it were intended for
travellers on foot. The peace and quiet of today, with the
long rows of pines and cypresses alternating with remains
of funerary monuments, and the view of the Colli Albani,
seems to make the traffic of people and carts that once
animated this road, and indicated by the marks in the
basalt slabs, even more remote. And yet, perhaps in the
course of these Roman days the distance between the past
and our times has become shorter and we can leave taking
some of it home with us.
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• Antique Walls of Cinta
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Castel Sant’Angelo
Via della Conciliazione leads to Castel Sant’Angelo, the
fortress of the popes built in the Middle Ages above the
remains of the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian (2nd century
AD). Its structure is an example of the continuity between
past and present in the urban fabric of Rome, where
ancient buildings were often reused and adapted to serve
new purposes, thus maintaining an active role in the
history of the city. |
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Castel Sant'Angelo
by night |
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Castel
Sant'Angelo |
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The location
of the
emperor’s
mausoleum on the right bank of the river Tiber, close to
the Vatican, determined its use as a defensive rampart,
connected to the papal palaces by a passageway, known as
the “Passetto”, and endowed with a moat surrounding it,
drawbridges and cannons. In the past the castle was famous
for its terrible dungeons, described by
Benvenuto Cellini
who made an adventurous escape from them. It was also a
place of public executions, as recalled by the opera
Tosca, that sees its tragic ending here. Walking through
the 58 rooms the Museum of the Castel Sant’Angelo today is
a journey through its 1800 years of history, and the many
terraces offer extraordinary views of the city. |
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Original angel
by
Raffaello da
Montelupo |
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Verschaffelt's
replacement |
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Don’t miss the Bridge of the Angels, with the statues by
the Bernini school that in the past announced to pilgrims
on their way to visit the tomb of St. Peter, that the goal
of their journey was near.
We suggest reaching Trastevere by boat with the navigation
service on the Tiber, and to get off at the Isola
Tiberina. The boat ride will evoke the
fundamental role
the river used to have in the life of the city, when
buildings and gardens went right down to the river banks,
that also had ports, water mills and platforms for fishing.
The Tiber often flooded causing great damage to the
neighbouring areas. This led to the construction of modern
embankments in the 1870s that have profoundly modified the
appearance of the river and its relationship to the city.
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Piazza Navona is one of the most
spectacular squares of Baroque Rome and a splendid example
of how the ancient appearance of the city can often be
traced and identified in the most popular places of its
contemporary life. The elongated shape of the square
repeats the structure of the Stadium of Domitian,
built in the 1st century AC for sports
competitions, and the remains of which are still visible
beneath the present street level in Piazza di Tor
Sanguigna.
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Piazza Navona
- antic print |
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Piazza Navona
- today |
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The square acquired the aspect we enjoy today in the Baroque
period, with the creation of Bernini’s
Fountain of the Four Rivers, and the
Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, adjacent to
the Palazzo Pamphilj, that were designed in
part by his “rival”, Borromini. The
giants on the Fountain at the centre of the piazza,
inaugurated in 1651, represent the four major rivers of
the continents known at the time: the Rio de la
Plata, the Danube, the Ganges
and the Nile, famous for its covered face
that indicated the mystery of its origins, as its source
had yet to be discovered.
The
representation of plants and animals, along with the
movement and sound of the water, seem to bring life and
animation to the fountain, which is surmounted by one of
the thirteen obelisks in Rome, and is
decorated with the coat of arms of the
Pamphilj pope. The hollow section at the
centre of the structure is an ingenious idea, as it allows
the viewer to see through the fountain without blocking
the perception of the full extension of the square.
In the past Piazza Navona was a market place and a venue
for festivals during which it used to be partially flooded
for the carriage parades of local aristocratic families,
and is still animated by the traditional Christmas fair,
performers, street artists and many outdoor cafes. As we
sit on the edge of a fountain we realize that one of
Rome’s most captivating features is the correspondence
between the space of art and history and our individual
space. We don’t have to limit ourselves to admiring from a
distance, on the contrary it seems that the city itself
invites us to come closer, to become better acquainted
with it and to feel that it belongs to us.
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Spanish Step - Piazza di Spagna
Heart of the most elegant and exclusive area of the
historical centre, Piazza di Spagna has always been a
meeting place for the Romans, but also for foreign
visitors and artists who in the past used to stay in the
numerous hotels and inns in the neighbouring streets.
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Piazza -
old photo |
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Piazza di
Spagna - today |
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The
Scalinata di Trinita’ dei Monti, built in 1726 to fulfil
the wishes of Innocenzo XIII links
Piazza di
Spagna with the Chiesa Trinita’ dei Monti. |
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The famous
staircase, designed in the 1700s by Francesco De
Sanctis, proved to be an efficient and spectacular
solution to the age-old problem of the connection between
the square, controlled at length by the Spaniards whose
embassy was located there, and the “French area” at the
top of the hill that included the Renaissance church of
the Trinità dei Monti.
The 138
steps in the staircase are animated by terraces and curved
sections that create the effect of a waterfall
precipitating into the square below. In the
spring it is decorated by colorful azaleas and it is also
the setting of a famous fashion show. The Fountain
of the Barcaccia was designed by
Pietro Bernini, Gian Lorenzo’s father, and it
represents a sinking boat placed in a low basin, a
brilliant solution to the problem of low pressure in the
conduits of the aqueduct that feeds it and that did not
allow high jets of water.
The streets around the square are famous for the boutiques
of the most famous brands in international fashion and
include Via Condotti, one of the most
elegant streets in the world.
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Trevi
Fountain
The spectacular effect of the Trevi Fountain
is not revealed gradually, one comes upon it by surprise,
located in a small piazza it is rather the sound of the
water (and the crowd esp.lly during summertime) that
suggests its proximity.
Designed in
the 18th century by architect Nicola
Salvi and built over thirty years, the Trevi
Fountain is the celebration of water as a symbol of life,
health and change. Its location indicates the end of
the course of the ancient aqueduct of the Acqua
Vergine (19 BC), the history of which is related
on the reliefs in the upper section of the facade.
The charm of
the fountain is enhanced by the contrast between its large
size and the small square that contains it and seems to
almost compress it, along with its location on the side of
a building that does not allow the viewer to walk around
it as it normally occurs.
The
personification of Ocean at the centre of the structure
appears to emerge from the water on a chariot
led by sea horses and tritons,
amidst rocks that are decorated with the representation of
thirty varieties of plants. The overall effect is a unique
combination of sculpture, architecture and nature in which
we can imagine the building blending with the rocks and
the gushing water. Don’t forget to throw the famous
coin to ensure your return to the Eternal City…To respect
the “proper procedure” one must stand with one’s back to
the fountain and throw the coin with the right hand over
the left shoulder.
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fountain |
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Bocca
della verità |
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Rome
& the Vatican:
full day
Imperial
Rome with The Forum of Caesar and of
Augustus passing by the Coliseum arriving
at Circus Maximus, The Spanish Steps, Navona Square ,
The Pantheon and The Fountain of Trevi. To finish
our adventurous and memorable day we will end it by entering The
Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. Here we
can take in the beauty of some of the most beautiful and
justifiably famous masterpieces of Italian art!
Private Guided
Tour - Duration 4 hrs from Monday to
Saturday and last Sunday of every month.
Nothing in the world compares to being lead into the Catholic
state for a walking tour to the discovery of art, history and
religion in the smallest state in the world. The whole
buildings include the papal apartments of the
medieval apostolic palace embellished by
frescoes during the Renaissance, the
Sistine Chapel, the Apostolic Library
and the museums. The Vatican collections
assembled through the centuries thanks to the artistic, dynastic
and religious ambitious of the Popes, today represents a museum
without any rival and with historical significance. Your
Lecture Guide will explain to you as you go along.
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| Columns
designed by Bernini |
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Basilica
of St Peter |
Because of
the way the traffic inside the Museums is regulated, at
sometimes certain portions are closed off, so please note that
the itinerary can change from time to time. Of course, you will
end at the Sistine Chapel!
From the Sistine you'll go directly to St. Peter's
Basilica, where you will see the Pietà by
Michelangelo and other fantastic masterpieces by
Bernini and Canova. After St. Peter's you
may want to take some free time to take pictures of the square,
shop for souvenirs and/or take a drink and relax.
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Tivoli
A
fascinating little town, the trip from Rome to Tivoli is only 25
mins.
First
stop will be Hadrian’s Villa, here
Emperor Hadrian in 117 AC built
a residence which is now considered to be the epitome in
architecture of the Roman world, the
complex was more an imperial garden city than a traditional
villa. Everything was designed to follow the natural
lay of the land.
History
The villa was created at Tibur (modern-day
Tivoli) as a retreat from Rome for Emperor Hadrian in
the early 2nd
century. Hadrian was said to dislike the palace on the
Palatine Hill in Rome, leading to the construction of
the retreat. During the later years of his reign, he actually
governed the empire from the villa. A large court therefore
lived there permanently. A postal service connected them to Rome.
After Hadrian, the villa was used by his various successors.
During the decline of the Roman Empire the villa fell into
disuse and was partially ruined. In the 16th
century Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este had much of
the marble and statues in Hadrian's villa removed to decorate
his own Villa d'Este located nearby.
Structure and architecture
Hadrian's villa was a complex of over 30 buildings, covering an
area of at least 1 square kilometre (c. 250 acres) of which much
is still unexcavated. The villa was the greatest Roman
example of an Alexandrian garden, recreating a sacred landscape.
The complex included palaces, several thermae, theatre, temples,
libraries, state rooms and quarters for courtiers, praetorians
and slaves.
The Villa shows echoes of many different architectural orders,
mostly Greek and Egyptian. Hadrian, a very well travelled
emperor borrowed these designs, such as the caryatids
by the Canopus, along with the statues beside them
depicting the Egyptian dwarf and fertility god, Bes. A
Greek so called "Maritime Theatre" exhibits
classical ionic style, whereas the domes of the main buildings
as well as the corinthian arches of the Canopus and Serapeum
show clear Roman architecture. Hadrian's biography
states that areas in the villa were named after places Hadrian
saw during his travels. Only a few places mentioned in the
biography can be accurately correlated with the present-day
ruins.
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| Hall
of Philosophy - Hadrian’s Villa |
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Marittimo
theater - Hadrian’s Villa |
One of the most striking and best preserved parts of the Villa
are a pool and an artificial grotto
which were named Canopus and Serapeum,
respectively. Canopus was an Egyptian city where a
temple (Serapeum) was dedicated to the god Serapis. However, the
architecture is Greek influenced (typical in Roman architecture
of the High and Late Empire) as seen in the Corinthian
columns and the copies of famous Greek statues
that surround the pool. One anecdote involves Serapeum and its
peculiarly-shaped dome. A prominent architect of the day,
Apollodorus of Damascus, dismisses Hadrian's designs,
comparing the dome on Serapeum to a "pumpkin". The full quote is
"Go away and draw your pumpkins. You know nothing about these [architectural]
matters." Once Hadrian became emperor, Apollodorus
was exiled and later put to death.
An interesting structure in the Villa is the so-called "Maritime
Theatre". It consists of a round portico with a barrel
vault supported by pillars. Inside the portico was a ring-shaped
pool with a central island. During the ancient times the island
was connected to the portico by two drawbridges. On the island
sits a small Roman house complete with an atrium, a library, a
triclinium and small baths. The area was probably used by the
emperor as a retreat from the busy life at the court.
The villa utilises numerous architectural styles and innovations.
The area has an extensive network of underground tunnels. The
tunnels were mostly used to transport servants and goods from
one area to another. The paths and roads above ground were
reserved for more high-ranking residents of the Villa. Domes and
barrel vaults are used extensively. The domes of the steam baths
have circular holes on the apex to allow steam to escape. This
is reminiscent of the Pantheon, also built by Hadrian.
In 1998 the remains of the monumental tomb of Antinous, or a
temple to him, were discovered at the Villa.
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Statues lining
the canopus - Hadrian’s Villa |
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Fountain and
garden of Villa d'Este |
From
this astonishing archaeological site we will head towards
Tivoli where we can admire its fountains and gardens.
Famous from the early Roman era, it was highly-regarded for its
thermal waters and baths and also for its location which
expands throughout the entire narrow valley near the Aniene
River, also known as the Teverone.
Tivoli
is also known for its other famous attraction…Villa
d’Este. This villa was designed for
the governor Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este. Before
being confiscated as his residence, the property had been a
Benedictine convent. The villa is decorated with 500
fountains and gardens of rare beauty!!!
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| Neptune
fountain
- Villa-d'Este |
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A
Hundred fountains - Villa-d'Este |
Top
Cerveteri
Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia
The necropolises of Tarquinia and Cerveteri are
masterpieces of creative genius. Tarquinia's
large-scale wall paintings are exceptional
both for their formal qualities and for their content,
which reveal aspects of life, death, and religious beliefs
of the ancient Etruscans.
Cerveteri shows in a funerary
context the same town planning and architectural schemes used in
an ancient city. The two necropolises
constitute a unique and exceptional testimony to the ancient
Etruscan civilisation, the only urban type of civilisation in
pre-Roman Italy. Moreover, the depiction of
daily life in the frescoed tombs, many of which are replicas of
Etruscan houses, is a unique testimony to this
vanished culture.
Many of the tombs of Tarquinia and Cerveteri represent
types of buildings which no longer exist in any other form. The
cemeteries, replicas of Etruscan town planning schemes, are some
of the earliest existing in the region.
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The
round tumuli stand close together. Their
round basic-wall is carved out of the rock by the
metre.
Over
that, a tumuli of earth is heaped up. Only one
narrow dead-way leads to the single tombs |
Cerveteri or Kaisra to the Etruscans
dates back to the 11th century as proven by the
archæological digs that uncovered dwelling areas
and necropolises. This Etruscan centre
underwent a long period of growth and was at its apogee around
the 6th century BC. Thanks to contact with
Grecian culture and business dealings with the Phœnicians.
This led to a pyramidal power structure with the aristocracy
holding the reins. The settlement also had close ties with
Carthage and together in 540 BC, they fought the
Focese (Greeks) in the battle of the Sardinian
Sea winning their place in the history books.
From the 5th century onwards, things began to
go wrong and over time, these led to the settlement’s decline.
First and foremost was the growing conflict with the Greeks
followed by the breaking off of trade with Italy.
The area came more and more under the influence of the
Romans during the 3rd and 2nd
centuries. A highly oppressive regime reigned
in the Middle Ages and the ancient Kaisra suffered
an attack by the Saracens. This led a
gradual abandonment of the area and as a consequence, the area
was further impoverished due the land being left uncultivated.
Malaria in the 12th century drove many
of the remaining residents to find healthier places to live.
Cerveteri is the main Etruscan archæological
site and is located in a fabulous site between the sea and the
mountains not far from the capital city and other main towns.
The journey between the historic centre and the necropolises
bears witness to a rich and varied mediæval past that can be
clearly seen in the locality that is brimming with reminders of
other times.
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Tomb of
The Augurs 530 - 480 BCE |
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Detail
from the Tomb of The Olympiads |
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Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri
These are the Etruscan Necropolises of Banditaccia
that extend over a distance of about 10 km (6 miles).
They house four hundred burial sites over a period
spanning from the 8th to the 2nd centuries
BC. From the point of view of developments in
instrumentation and increased architectural awareness, such a
wide time span has greatly helped studies of the tombs that are
researching the social and urban evolution of the site.
One of the most striking characteristics is the way the
paths are laid out in block formation, much like
any town. There are numerous circular burial mounds
dug from the tufacous surface. These mounds contain an
inner burial chamber accessed by a corridor.
The funeral mounds followed the design of
Etruscan dwellings.
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Necropoli di Banditaccia |
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Tomba
dei Relievi - internal |
Via degli Inferi is the main pathway
separating the various burial areas. One of the most
interesting tombs to see is the Tomba dei Rilievi
that dates back to the 4th century BC. It
houses stuccoes that depict events, animals and objects that
were used in day-to-day life. The tomb is of single chamber
construction with partitions, balconies, columns and spaces
assigned for graves. Also well-worth noting are the
Tombe dei Capitelli, dei Scudi and
delle Sedie, delle Cinque Sedie and dell’Alcova.
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Tomb
dell'Alcova - internal |
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Tomb dei
Capitelli - internal |
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• Tomba dell’Alcova is made up of a single
square chamber and dates back to the 4th
century BC.
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Tomba dei Capitelli is completely dug out
from the tufaceous surface and an access corridor leads to
two small chambers plus a square central room that has
three rooms at its end. The tomb dates back to the 6th
century BC.
• Tomba delle Cinque Sedie has the same type
of interior layout with seats and footstools but in this
case there are five of them also bearing statues. These
statues had the role of welcoming the dead to the
afterlife with a banquet.
• Tomba dei Scudi e delle Sedie houses six
beds with pillows carved from the tufa. These were
intended for the bodies of men as women were buried in
sarcophagi. There are also high-backed seats and
footstools where two terracotta statues rested.
•
Tomba della Capanna is the second oldest tumulo of
Cerveteri - 680-670 a.C. |
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Tomba
delle Cinque Sedie |
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Tomba
dei Scudi e delle Sedie |
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Tomba
della Capanna |
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Tarquinia
Tarquinii (Etruscan Tarchnal) is said to have been already
a flourishing city when Demaratus of Corinth
brought in Greek workmen. It was the chief of the twelve
cities of Etruria, and appears in the earliest history of
Rome as the home of two of its kings, Tarquinius
Priscus and Tarquinius Superbus.
From it many of the religious rites and ceremonies of Rome
are said to have been derived, and even in imperial times
a collegium of sixty haruspices continued to exist there.
The people of Tarquinii and Veii attempted to restore
Tarquinius Superbus to the throne after his expulsion.
In 358 BCE the citizens of Tarquinii
captured and put to death 307 Roman soldiers; the
resulting war ended in 351 with a forty years' truce,
renewed for a similar period in 308. When Tarquinii came
under Roman domination is uncertain, as is
also the date at which it became a municipality; in 181
BCE its port, Graviscae (mod. Porto
Clementino), in an unhealthy position on the low
coast, became a Roman colony. It exported wine and carried
on coral fisheries. Nor do we hear much of it in
Roman times; it lay on the hills above the coast road. The
flax and forests of its extensive territory are mentioned
by classical authors, and we find Tarquinii offering to
furnish Scipio with sailcloth in 195 BCE. A
bishop of Tarquinii is mentioned in 456.
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Tomb of
The Augurs 530 - 480 BCE |
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Detail
from the Tomb of The Olympiads |
The original site of the Etruscan city of Tarquinia, known
as the "Civita", is on the long plateau to the
north of the current town. The two coexisted for most of
the early middle ages, with Tarquinia
dwindling to a small fortified settlement on the "Castellina"
location, and the more strategically placed Corneto
(possibly the "Corito" mentioned in Roman
sources) growing progressively to become the major city of
the lower Maremma sea coast, especially after the
destruction of the port of Centumcellae (modern
Civitavecchia). The last historic references
to Tarquinia are from around 1250, while the name of
Corneto was changed to Tarquinia in 1934.
Reversion to historical place names (not always accurately),
was a frequent phenomenon under the Fascist
Government of Italy as part of the nationalist
campaign to evoke past glories.
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Detail
of the Tomb of The Augurs |
It is an often ignored fact that Italy had
quite a significant civilisation before the Roman times.
The Etruscans were the occupiers of the land, and have
left few monuments that survived until nowadays.
Etruscan tombs are among these monuments. And
observing the drawing and painting of these tombs reveals
a lot about Etruscan way of life.
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• One Etruscan tomb shows two wrestlers,
one of whom has lifted the other from the ground, to
the accompaniment of the flute-player
who is standing between the two groups. This and
many other Etruscan paintings confirm that the
Etruscans made their boxers perform to the sound of
the flute. Flute-playing was so popular that masters
scourged their slaves and caused their cooks to work
in the kitchen to the sound of the flute; and the
Romans adopted the Etruscan tradition and gave their
flute-players a recognized position in the
community. The flute-players left Rome in disgust
and went in a body to Tibur, and the
only device the Romans could think of was to make
the excellent fellows drunk and cart them back to
Rome, where the citizens made haste to confirm the
ancient privileges of the flute-players and to add
several new ones in order to make the awakening more
pleasant. |
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Probably
a painter of the Ionian school.
Tomb of
the Bulls - circa 560 BCE |
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Tale of
Achilles and Troilus from Greek Mythology
Tomb of
the Bulls |
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• In
another tomb, an equestrian procession
begins and is continued on the back wall to the
central false door. Four young naked
horsemen,
some of them with staves in their hands, are
received by a naked youth who carries a palm-branch
over his shoulder. Apart from the nakedness, which
must be attributed to the influence of Greek art,
this equestrian procession is genuinely Etruscan. The equestrian procession is presumably the
preliminary to a horse-race. The nobles of Etruria
were celebrated for their race-horses and often sent
their chariot-teams to the games in early Rome. |
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Fresco
in Etruscan tombe |
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Flute
player |
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• Dancers appear in a number of
Etruscan tomb-paintings, and abandon themselves to
their gambols with a frenzy which might seem
incompatible with death and entombment. In the
Tomba del Morto at Corneto, dating from
the same period, we find traces of a
pirouetting dancer close to the couch of the
dead and the lamenting mourners; the dance was thus
as important as the funeral lament. The finest
representations of Etruscan mourning dancers are
found in the Tomba del Triclinio,
which dates from the beginning of the fifth century
B.C.
On
each wall three female and two male dancers are seen
among trees; singing birds appear in the foliage.
The male dancers play the lyre and the flute; the
dancing-girls have castanets and the foremost a
strap or chaplet with bells over her shoulder.
Similar chaplets with bells are often seen hanging
on the walls in pictures representing the symposia
in honour of the dead, and bear witness to the
childish predilection of the Etruscans for
gipsy-like noise and merry-making. The most
beautiful dancing-girl, however, in any Etruscan
tomb is the 'bella ballerina di Corneto',
discovered on a wall in the Tomba Francesca
Giustiniani. |
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Tomba
delle Leonesse |
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Tale of
Achilles and Troilus from Greek Mythology |
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Tomba
dei Leoni Depinti
left:
Detail of the ray ceiling - right:
room with two large baskets dug out from the
tufaceous surface |
it’s a good centre for visiting the Etruscan remains.
It is an easily visited village in Italy's northern Lazio
region, only 20 kms north of Civitavecchia.
The tombs are on the ouskirts of town. There is also an
archaeological museum a short walk away in the town of
Tarquinia.
The approach to Tarquinia
is exciting. You are immediately outside the
walls and if you pass through, you come immediately to
Piazza Cavour where the National Museum is
situated in the 15th century Palazzo Vitelleschi,
a very picturesque building.
Inside
is what is probably the best collection of Etruscan
remains outside of Rome. Some of the paintings are
awesome and the pottery and metal artefacts are of top
quality. Some of the jewellery is truly intricate.
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The Tomb
of the Jugglers |
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Tomb of
Hunting and Fishing |
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Tomba Caccia e Pesca - Second room
(burial chamber):
Main wall: there are two scenes, one
on the fronton and another on the lower part of the
wall. At this point a hollow has been dug,
almost certainly after the painter had finished his
work; in fact the hunting and
fishing scene has been cut into.
In the pediment this hollow was perhaps designed for
a cinerary urn. Fronton:
a banquet scene is represented. To the right a
servant with a vase approaches a stamnos (crater).
The servant is going to draw wine to bring to the
banquet. By the crater other pottery can
be seen.
In the center of the banquet a Heptachord
can be seen and on the cline a man and a woman; the
man holds a kylix; the woman has white skin and the
man has red skin. There is
pronounced disproportion between the size of natural
elements (birds) and the people, a typical feature
of the Ionian school. |
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The
market area in the street around the Piazza dei Caduti The
Piazza del Plebiscito has a very high clocktower and the
municipal building, which is housed in the 15th century
Palazzo dei Prori. This is beautifully floodlit.
The
Piazza San Lorenzo, which contains the Cathedral
and
the13th century Palazzo dei Papi is surprisingly quiet,
though architecturally very fine.
Main sights:
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Etruscan necropolises, with some 6,000 tombs,
60 of which include wall paintings.
• National Museum, with a large
collection of archaeological findings. It is housed
in the Renaissance Palazzo Vitelleschi, begun
in 1436 and completed around 1480-1490
• Church of Santa Maria di Castello
(1121-1208), with Lombard and Cosmatesque
influences. The façade has a small bell-tower and
three entrances. The interior has a nave and two
aisles, divided by massive pilasters with
palaeo-christian capitals and friezes. Noteworthy
are also the rose-window in the nave and the several
marble works by Roman masters.
• Cathedral, once in
Romanesque-Gothic style but rebuilt after the
1643 fire, has maintained from the original edifice
the 16th century frescoes in presbitery,
by Antonio del Massaro.
• Church of San Giacomo and
Santissima Annunziata, showing different
Arab and Byzantine influences.
• small church of San Martino (12th
century).
• church of St. John the Baptist (12th
century), with an elegant rose-window in the simple
façade.
• Communal Palace, in Romanesque
style, begun in the 13th century and
restored in the 16th.
• numerous medieval towers, including
that of Dante Alighieri.
• Palazzo dei Priori. The façade,
remade in Baroque times, has a massive external
staircase. The interior has a fresco cycle from
1429.
• Gothic-Romanesque church of San Pancrazio.
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Tomba
delle Leonesse |
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Sacofago |
Although the medieval sights of both Viterbo
and
Tarquinia
are very good and in places even spectacular, this slot
must go to the necropolis at Tarquinia. It is very
different from that at Cerveteri. There are
the wonderful painted tombs stretching back at least to
the 7th century BC. Of course they aren’t in
pristine condition. It is several centuries
since the first ones were discovered and they have
suffered pollution and pilfering. Some of the best
painting is in museums in Rome or Tarquinia itself.
However what remains is more than sufficient to justify
the inclusion of the Necropolis in UNESCO’s list of
World Heritage sites.
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Palazzo
Papale - Viterbo |
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Palazzo
Papale |
The
Pelegrino area of Viterbo is special indeed.
Part is fortunately pedestrianised so that you can stroll
and look in peace. There are the narrow
streets and staircases typical of older Italian towns and
cities but the area has more than its share of towers,
arcaded balconies and external staircases on buildings.
The Piazza San Peligrino, in the heart of
the area, is just about the same now as in the 14th
century when it was built.
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