Como Cortina d'Ampezzo Verona Firenze Roma Siena Pisa San Gimignano Portofino Venezia
Como Cortina  Verona Firenze Roma Siena Pisa San Gimignano Portofino Venezia
   

info@welcometuscanyitaly.com

Home

Other Tour Suggestions                   Lazio

                                      

 

        

Lazio

 

 

 

 

The name of the region also survives in the tribal designation of the ancient population of Latins, from whom the Romans originated.   In Roman mythology, the shadowy king Latinus allegedly gave his name to the region.  The name is most likely derived from the Latin word "latus", meaning "wide", expressing the idea of "flat land" (in contrast to the local Sabine high country) but the name may originate from an earlier, non Indo-European one.

 

Latium, originally inhabited by the Latins, extended its boundaries to the territories of the Sanniti, the Marsi and Campania thanks to the Roman conquests, taking in the lands of the Ernici, the Equi, the Aurunci and Volsci.   This territory was called Latium Novi to differentiate it from Latium veteres, which indicated the original boundaries.

 

 

 


A landscape in Lazio: part of Tivoli, near Rome, seen from the upper terraces of the Villa d'Este.    During the Augustus' administrative system,
Latium - together with the present region of Campania - was the first Italian region.

After the Gothic war (535-554) and the Byzantine conquest, this region regained its freedom, because the "Roman Duchy" became the property of the Eastern Emperor. However the long wars against the Longobards impaired the region which was seized by the Roman Bishop who already had several properties in those territories.

The strengthening of the religious and ecclesiastical aristocracy led to continuous power struggles between lords and the Roman bishop until the middle of the XVI century. Innocent III tried to strengthen his own territorial power, wishing to assert his authority on the provincial administrations of Tuscia,
Campagna and Marittima through the Church's representatives, in order to tear down the Colonna's power.   Other popes tried to do the same.

 

     



During the Avignon period the feudal lords' power increased thanks to the absence of the Pope from Rome.   Small communes, and Rome above all, opposed the lords power raise and with Cola di Rienzo tried to put themselves up as antagonists of the ecclesiastical power.   Between 1353 and 1367 the restoration of the pontifical authority brought to a total retrieval of Latium and the rest of the Pontifical States.

From the middle of the XVI century the pontifical power's victory unified Latium's history with that of the Pontifical States becoming the provincial administrations of St. Peter's estate, with a governor in Viterbo and of Marittima and
Campagna and one in Frosinone.

After the short Roman Republic and the region's annexation to France, by Napoleon I, Latium became again part of the Pontifical States.  In 1870 when the French troops abandoned Rome, General Cadorna entered the pontifical territory, occupying Rome on the 20th of September and Latium was enclosed within the Kingdom of Italy.

 

 
    

 

 

Top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bolsena lake

 

Comuni bordering the lake

The following comuni are situated on the shore of Lake Bolsena:

  • Bolsena,the town, rises on the hills of Volsini, on the banks of the lake which gives its name and is famous for the miracle of Corpus Domini and for the plastic tables carried out by observers on the eve of the Festival of Saint Christine, patroness of the city.   Etruscan origin, was called Velsna and was one of the richest and powerful town of Etruria.    Conquered by the romans and flatterned to the ground, once rebuilt it took on the name Volsinii.   

     

Bolsena lake

Bolsena

 

  • Rocca and the cupola of Santa Margherita.   A former episcopal see, it is known for its wine Est! Est! Est!!! 

  • Marta, a village known for its festivals in honour of the Madonna del Monte, called Festa delle Passate, which is often called Barabbata. The inhabitants are devoted primarily to agriculture, livestock or fishing.

  • Capodimonte, on the edge of the lake, has a landing stage from which the shuttles for the islands leave.

  • Valentano is known for having given fame to Paolo Ruffini, after having a long time been the center of the Farnese epoch, following the destruction of Castro (1649) and the dissolution of the eponymousduchy.  The old castle of Farnèse is the location of the museum of the prehistory of Tuscia.

  • Gradoli is famous for its oil and wine, particularly the wine liqueur called Aleatico. This location also preserves an imposing Farnese palace, which was built for the cardinal Alexandre Farnese, who became pope under the name Paul III.

  • Grotte di Castro, in addition to the caves which its name probably derives, is a center of production of potatoes and lentils.

  • San Lorenzo Nuovo, rebuilt at the end of the 18th century and known for its modern architecture, is renowned for its potato gnocchi which can be tasted on the occasion of the sagra which is held during the second week of August.

Other nearby towns with interesting history are Sorano and Pitigliano.

Top

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bracciano, a town that is known for its Castle, and a medieval one at that!!  It was also the scene of the Tom & Katie Cruise wedding so there was a little intrigue, especially when you see the size of Bracciano!   It was the event of the century to have that many people here at once!

    

Anguilara  Castello Orsini Odescalchi

 

Bracciano is a hill town and rests above the lake so the views are wonderful.  From the central car park, we venture up the hill towards the castle.  Opening time, 3:00pm   There are quite a few cute little shops along the way.

Now Bracciano, though a nice town, doesn't offer the wonderful lakefront dining one would expect, only 10 minutes drive away is Anguillara , La Nepitella, a cute little place right on the lake, for lunch of a light salads with some local lake fish, grilled or fried.  Either way is a great choice as they are excellent.   The views of the lake with the swans floating by and the local fisherman out in their boats makes a perfect setting. 

After lunch, we head back to Bracciano, to tour the castle. 

Top

 

 

 

 

 

Rome

 

Our service will take you on the discovery of the true treasures of Rome.  In this city a phenomenal concentration of history, cultural, legend and monuments coexists with an equally phenomenal concentration of people busily going about their daily life.   

 

From the Imperial Rome of Julius Caesar to the City of Popes.  Immerse yourself in the past touching upon the various periods of a city that has left its mark in history. 

 

The Classic Itinerary comes upon a part of the antique Papal city including attractions such as:

 

•  Forums of Trajan and Augustus   Antique Walls of Cinta
   Roman Forum of Caesar   Pantheon
•  Circus Maximus   Trevi Fountain
•  Piazza Del Campidoglio    Piazza Navona
•  Coliseum   Vatican
The Appian Way    

 

 

Forum was the centre of the public life of the ancient city; it developed after the reclaiming of the marshy valley that extended from the Palatine and Capitoline hills in the 7th century BC and the last monument – the commemorative column of the emperor Phocas – was erected there in the 7th century AC, exactly 1200 years later.

 

With the passing of time and the increase in the population, the area was extended with the addition of Imperial Forums that also contributed in stressing the greatness of the empire.    Later, as decline set in, the Forum was abandoned and used as a source of building material. When the first archaeological excavations began in the late 18th century, its monuments, by then mostly underground, had been invaded by cattle and flocks and used as pasture land.

 

    

 Forum with

Basilica Ulpia and Column of Trajan

Forum of Augustus

 

•   Forums of Trajan and Augustus

It is probable that Domitian's projects were more ambitious than the building of the small "Forum of Nerva", and probably under his reign they started to remove the small saddle that united the Capitoline Hill to the Quirinal Hill, thus blocking the Forums towards Campus Martius, near to modern Piazza Venezia.

The project was resumed by Trajan with the construction of Trajan's Forum between 112 and 113.  The occasion was the conquest of Dacia, whose spoils paid for this celebration of the military conquests of Rome.

The preparation of the Forum required a lot of work.  It was necessary to remove the hilly saddle, and to support the cut of Quirinal Hill through the building of the Trajan's market.  The Forum square was closed by the Basilica Ulpia, with Trajan's Column at its back.  In front of the basilica, a monumental façade was the background of a large, equestrian sculpture of the Emperor.   The last Forum was also the biggest and greatest.

 

    

View of Trajan's Forum

 

 

Detail  map of the Forums

Top

 

Roman Forum of Caesar is the most important archaeological area in the city, the ideal place to understand that having a “historical sense” means, as the great writer T.S. Eliot says...'feeling that the people of the past are our contemporaries'

 

Julius Caesar decided to construct a large forum bearing his name. This forum was inaugurated in 46 BC, though it was probably incomplete at this time and was finished later by Augustus.

 

    

Forum of Caesar Forum of Caesar with overlay of how it was

 

The Forum of Caesar was constructed as an extension to the Roman Forum, and was used as a replacement venue to the Roman Forum for public affairs as well as government; it was also designed as a celebration of Caesar's power. Caesar had placed, on the front of his forum, a temple devoted to Venus Genitrix, since Caesar's family (gens Julia) claimed to descend by Venus through Aeneas. A statue of Caesar himself riding Bucephalus, the celebrated horse of Alexander the Great, was placed in front of the temple, to symbolise absolute power.  

 

    

Forum of Ceasar  Bust of Julius Ceasar

 

This centralised vision corresponded to the ideological function, following the propaganda of the Hellenistic sanctuaries; also the choice of the Forum site carried a meaning: the future dictator didn't want to be far from the central power, represented in the Curia, administration of justice and seat of the Senate.  In fact, not long before Caesar's death, the Senate agreed to reconstruct the Curia on the site.

 

This was also the political, religious and commercial activities of ancient Rome took place.  The Romans charged their buildings with an important function of propagandistic communication, aiming at producing in the viewer a sense of admiration mixed with fear.  Besides the Curia we find basilicas for business meetings, temples, triumphal arches, monuments and statues. The area was crossed by the Via Sacra which was used for religious processions and triumphal parades.    Top

 

 

 

Circus Maximus (Latin for greatest circus, in Italian Circo Massimo) is an ancient hippodrome and mass entertainment venue located in Rome.
 

   

Situated in the valley between the Aventine and Palatine hills, the location was first utilized for public games and entertainment by the Etruscan kings of Rome. Certainly, the first games of the Ludi Romani (Roman Games) were staged at the location by Tarquinius Priscus, the fifth Etruscan ruler of Rome.  

 

 Imperial Palace and Circus Maxium model

 

Somewhat later, the Circus was the site of public games and festivals influenced by the Greeks in the 2nd century BC.  Chariot racing was the most important event at the Circus. The track could hold twelve chariots, and the two sides of the track were separated by a raised median termed the spina.  The spina was set slightly diagonally.  

 

Statues of various gods were set up on the spina, and Augustus erected an Egyptian obelisk on it as well.  At either end of the spina was a turning post, the meta, around which chariots made dangerous turns at speed.   On top of the spina, there were rotatable metal dolphins that were turned down to mark laps around the course.   Chariot racing was an extemely dangerous sport, frequently resulting in spectacular crashes and quite possibly the death of one or more of the contestants.

   

 Circus Maxium  - model

 

Very little now remains of the Circus, except for the now grass-covered racing track and the spina.   Some of the starting gates remain, but most of the seating has disappeared, the materials no doubt employed for building other structures in medieval Rome.

This obelisk was removed in the 16th century by Pope Sixtus V and placed in the Piazza del Popolo.   Excavation of the site began in the 19th century, followed by a partial restoration, but there are yet to be any truly comprehensive excavations conducted within its grounds.

 

       

The Circus Maximus retained the honour of being the first and largest circus in Rome, but it was not the only example: other Roman circuses included the Circus Flaminius (in which the Ludi Plebeii were held), the Circus of Maxentius and the Circus of Nero.

 

Sestertius coin depicting Caracalla and the Circus Maximus with the obelisk and the spina

 

 

The Circus still occasionally entertains the Romans; being a large, green area in the center of the city, it is often used for concerts and meetings. The Rome concert of Live 8 (July 2, 2005) was celebrated here, as was the Italian World Cup 2006 victory, when over 700,000 people packed in to celebrate.

On July 14, 2007 the British rock band Genesis concluded the European leg of their Turn It On Again tour by a free concert at Circo Maximus in front of 500,000+ fans.

 

    

Today - Circus Maximus is a park .

The building is the imperial palace on the Palatine hill.

 

Top


 

Piazza Del Campidoglio  - with its splendid view of the Imperial City. 

The Capitoline Hill, between the Forum and the Campus Martius, is one of the most famous and highest of the seven hills of Rome.  By the 16th century, Capitolino had become Campidoglio in the Roman dialect.  Similarly, the English word capitol derives from Capitoline.   The Capitoline contains relatively few ancient ground-level ruins, as they are almost entirely covered up by Medieval palaces (now the Capitoline Museums) that surround a piazza.  A significant portion of the architecture in this area was designed by Michelangelo Buonarroti in 1536 - 1546.

 

    

Michelangelo's systematizing of the Campidoglio,

engraved by Étienne Dupérac, 1568..

Stairway leading up to the piazza.

 

At the height of his fame he was commissioned by the Farnese Pope Paul III, who wanted a symbol of the new Rome to impress Charles V, who was expected in 1538. Michelangelo's first designs for the piazza and remodelling of the surrounding palazzos date from 1536. He effectively reversed the classical orientation of the Capitoline, in a symbolic gesture turning Rome’s civic center to face away from the Roman Forum and instead in the direction of Papal Rome and the Christian church in the form of St. Peter’s Basilica.

The sequence, Cordonata piazza and the central palazzo are the first urban introduction of the "cult of the axis" that was to occupy Italian garden plans and reach fruition in France.

Executing the design was slow work: little was actually completed in Michelangelo's lifetime (the ‘’Cordonata’’ was not in place when Emperor Charles arrived, and the imperial party had to scramble up the slope from the Forum to view the works in progress), but work continued faithfully to his designs and the Campidoglio was completed in the 17th century, except for the paving design, which was to be finished three centuries later.

 

    

 

 

Capitoline Museums (Italian Musei Capitolini) are a group of art and archeological museums in Piazza del Campidoglio, on top of the famous Capitoline Hill.  The museums are contained in three palazzi surrounding a central trapezoidal piazza in a plan conceived by Michelangelo.  The history of the museums can be traced to 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a collection of important ancient bronzes to the people of Rome and located them on Capitoline

Hill.  Since then, the museums' collection has grown to include a large number of ancient Roman statues, inscriptions, and other artifacts; a collection of medieval and Renaissance art; and collections of jewels, coins, and other items.

 

The museums are owned and operated by the municipality of Rome.The statue of a mounted rider in the centre of the piazza is of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.   It is a copy, the original being housed on-site in the Capitoline museum.   Many Roman statues were destroyed on the orders of Christian Church authorities in the Middle Ages; this statue was preserved in the erroneous belief that it depicted the Emperor Constantine, who made Christianity the official state religion of the Roman empire.   Top

 

 

 

The Appian Way
 walk along the original slab stones of the ancient Appian Way is an ideal conclusion to a stay in Rome and a last occasion to evoke historical memories in a natural context of incredible beauty. The most ancient (4th century BC) consular road is an outstanding example of the practical genius of the Romans who conceived their road system as a way of taking possession of the world and dominating it. The great straight stretches allowed to move troops rapidly and efficiently and favoured commerce.

 

     

Appian way

 

In building them the Romans were not conditioned by the layout of the territory but actually modified it by reclaiming marshy areas, building bridges and cutting hills. The Regina Viarum (Queen of Roads), built by censor Appius Claudius the Blind, after whom it was named, headed south and over time was extended to reach Brindisi, the gate to the East.
 

Walking along the ancient road, made up of layers of different materials, it becomes clear that the carriage way was wide enough to allow traffic in opposite directions, and that the wide sidewalks flanking it were intended for travellers on foot. The peace and quiet of today, with the long rows of pines and cypresses alternating with remains of funerary monuments, and the view of the Colli Albani, seems to make the traffic of people and carts that once animated this road, and indicated by the marks in the basalt slabs, even more remote. And yet, perhaps in the course of these Roman days the distance between the past and our times has become shorter and we can leave taking some of it home with us.   Top

 

 


•   Antique Walls of Cinta

 

Castel Sant’Angelo
Via della Conciliazione leads to Castel Sant’Angelo, the fortress of the popes built in the Middle Ages above the remains of the tomb of the Emperor Hadrian (2nd century AD).   Its structure is an example of the continuity between past and present in the urban fabric of Rome, where ancient buildings were often reused and adapted to serve new purposes, thus maintaining an active role in the history of the city.  

 

     

Castel Sant'Angelo by night Castel Sant'Angelo

 

The location of the emperor’s mausoleum on the right bank of the river Tiber, close to the Vatican, determined its use as a defensive rampart, connected to the papal palaces by a passageway, known as the “Passetto”, and endowed with a moat surrounding it, drawbridges and cannons.  In the past the castle was famous for its terrible dungeons, described by Benvenuto Cellini who made an adventurous escape from them.  It was also a place of public executions, as recalled by the opera Tosca, that sees its tragic ending here.   Walking through the 58 rooms the Museum of the Castel Sant’Angelo today is a journey through its 1800 years of history, and the many terraces offer extraordinary views of the city.

 

     

 

                 

Original angel by

Raffaello da Montelupo

Verschaffelt's replacement

 

Don’t miss the Bridge of the Angels, with the statues by the Bernini school that in the past announced to pilgrims on their way to visit the tomb of St. Peter, that the goal of their journey was near.

We suggest reaching Trastevere by boat with the navigation service on the Tiber, and to get off at the Isola Tiberina.  The boat ride will evoke the fundamental role the river used to have in the life of the city, when buildings and gardens went right down to the river banks, that also had ports, water mills and platforms for fishing. The Tiber often flooded causing great damage to the neighbouring areas. This led to the construction of modern embankments in the 1870s that have profoundly modified the appearance of the river and its relationship to the city.  
Top

 

 

 

   Piazza Navona is one of the most spectacular squares of Baroque Rome and a splendid example of how the ancient appearance of the city can often be traced and identified in the most popular places of its contemporary life. The elongated shape of the square repeats the structure of the Stadium of Domitian, built in the 1st century AC for sports competitions, and the remains of which are still visible beneath the present street level in Piazza di Tor Sanguigna.


 

     

      

Piazza Navona - antic print

Piazza Navona - today

 

The square acquired the aspect we enjoy today in the Baroque period, with the creation of Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, and the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, adjacent to the Palazzo Pamphilj, that were designed in part by his “rival”, Borromini.  The giants on the Fountain at the centre of the piazza, inaugurated in 1651, represent the four major rivers of the continents known at the time: the Rio de la Plata, the Danube, the Ganges and the Nile, famous for its covered face that indicated the mystery of its origins, as its source had yet to be discovered.

 

The representation of plants and animals, along with the movement and sound of the water, seem to bring life and animation to the fountain, which is surmounted by one of the thirteen obelisks in Rome, and is decorated with the coat of arms of the Pamphilj pope.  The hollow section at the centre of the structure is an ingenious idea, as it allows the viewer to see through the fountain without blocking the perception of the full extension of the square.


In the past Piazza Navona was a market place and a venue for festivals during which it used to be partially flooded for the carriage parades of local aristocratic families, and is still animated by the traditional Christmas fair, performers, street artists and many outdoor cafes.   As we sit on the edge of a fountain we realize that one of Rome’s most captivating features is the correspondence between the space of art and history and our individual space. We don’t have to limit ourselves to admiring from a distance, on the contrary it seems that the city itself invites us to come closer, to become better acquainted with it and to feel that it belongs to us. 
Top

 

 

•   Spanish Step - Piazza di Spagna
Heart of the most elegant and exclusive area of the historical centre, Piazza di Spagna has always been a meeting place for the Romans, but also for foreign visitors and artists who in the past used to stay in the numerous hotels and inns in the neighbouring streets.

 

     

      

Piazza  - old photo

Piazza di Spagna - today

 

The Scalinata di Trinita’ dei Monti, built in 1726 to fulfil the wishes of Innocenzo XIII links

Piazza di Spagna with the Chiesa Trinita’ dei Monti.

 

The famous staircase, designed in the 1700s by Francesco De Sanctis, proved to be an efficient and spectacular solution to the age-old problem of the connection between the square, controlled at length by the Spaniards whose embassy was located there, and the “French area” at the top of the hill that included the Renaissance church of the Trinità dei Monti. 

 

The 138 steps in the staircase are animated by terraces and curved sections that create the effect of a waterfall precipitating into the square below.   In the spring it is decorated by colorful azaleas and it is also the setting of a famous fashion show.  The Fountain of the Barcaccia was designed by Pietro Bernini, Gian Lorenzo’s father, and it represents a sinking boat placed in a low basin, a brilliant solution to the problem of low pressure in the conduits of the aqueduct that feeds it and that did not allow high jets of water.


The streets around the square are famous for the boutiques of the most famous brands in international fashion and include Via Condotti, one of the most elegant streets in the world. 
Top

 

 

 

Trevi Fountain
The spectacular effect of the Trevi Fountain is not revealed gradually, one comes upon it by surprise, located in a small piazza it is rather the sound of the water (and the crowd esp.lly during summertime) that suggests its proximity.  

 

Designed in the 18th century by architect Nicola Salvi and built over thirty years, the Trevi Fountain is the celebration of water as a symbol of life, health and change.  Its location indicates the end of the course of the ancient aqueduct of the Acqua Vergine (19 BC), the history of which is related on the reliefs in the upper section of the facade.

 

The charm of the fountain is enhanced by the contrast between its large size and the small square that contains it and seems to almost compress it, along with its location on the side of a building that does not allow the viewer to walk around it as it normally occurs. 

 

The personification of Ocean at the centre of the structure appears to emerge from the water on a chariot led by sea horses and tritons, amidst rocks that are decorated with the representation of thirty varieties of plants. The overall effect is a unique combination of sculpture, architecture and nature in which we can imagine the building blending with the rocks and the gushing water.  Don’t forget to throw the famous coin to ensure your return to the Eternal City…To respect the “proper procedure” one must stand with one’s back to the fountain and throw the coin with the right hand over the left shoulder.

 

 

 

     

Trevi fountain Bocca della verità

 

Top

 

 

Rome & the Vatican: full day

 

Imperial Rome with The Forum of Caesar and of Augustus passing by the Coliseum arriving at Circus Maximus, The Spanish Steps, Navona Square , The Pantheon and The Fountain of Trevi. To finish our adventurous and memorable day we will end it by entering The Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.    Here we can take in the beauty of some of the most beautiful and justifiably famous masterpieces of Italian art!

 

Private Guided Tour  - Duration 4 hrs from Monday to Saturday and last Sunday of every month.  Nothing in the world compares to being lead into the Catholic state for a walking tour to the discovery of art, history and religion in the smallest state in the world.  The whole buildings include the papal apartments of the medieval apostolic palace embellished by frescoes during the Renaissance, the Sistine Chapel, the Apostolic Library and the museums.  The Vatican collections assembled through the centuries thanks to the artistic, dynastic and religious ambitious of the Popes, today represents a museum without any rival and with historical significance.  Your Lecture Guide will  explain to you as you go along.

 

     

Columns designed by Bernini Basilica  of St Peter

 

Because of the way the traffic inside the Museums is regulated, at sometimes certain portions are closed off, so please note that the itinerary can change from time to time.  Of course, you will end at the Sistine Chapel!

From the Sistine you'll go directly to St. Peter's Basilica, where you will see the Pietà by Michelangelo and other fantastic masterpieces by Bernini and Canova.  After St. Peter's you may want to take some free time to take pictures of the square, shop for souvenirs and/or take a drink and relax.  

 

Top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tivoli

 

A fascinating little town, the trip from Rome to Tivoli is only 25 mins.

 

First stop will be Hadrian’s Villa, here Emperor Hadrian in 117 AC built a residence which is now considered to be the epitome in architecture of the Roman world, the complex was more an imperial garden city than a traditional villa.   Everything was designed to follow the natural lay of the land.

 

History
The villa was created at Tibur (modern-day Tivoli) as a retreat from Rome for Emperor Hadrian in the early 2
nd century.  Hadrian was said to dislike the palace on the Palatine Hill in Rome, leading to the construction of the retreat. During the later years of his reign, he actually governed the empire from the villa. A large court therefore lived there permanently. A postal service connected them to Rome.   After Hadrian, the villa was used by his various successors.   During the decline of the Roman Empire the villa fell into disuse and was partially ruined.  In the 16th century Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este had much of the marble and statues in Hadrian's villa removed to decorate his own Villa d'Este located nearby.

Structure and architecture
Hadrian's villa was a complex of over 30 buildings, covering an area of at least 1 square kilometre (c. 250 acres) of which much is still unexcavated.  The villa was the greatest Roman example of an Alexandrian garden, recreating a sacred landscape. The complex included palaces, several thermae, theatre, temples, libraries, state rooms and quarters for courtiers, praetorians and slaves.

The Villa shows echoes of many different architectural orders, mostly Greek and Egyptian. Hadrian, a very well travelled emperor borrowed these designs, such as the caryatids by the Canopus, along with the statues beside them depicting the Egyptian dwarf and fertility god, Bes.  A Greek so called "Maritime Theatre" exhibits classical ionic style, whereas the domes of the main buildings as well as the corinthian arches of the Canopus and Serapeum show clear Roman architecture.   Hadrian's biography states that areas in the villa were named after places Hadrian saw during his travels.  Only a few places mentioned in the biography can be accurately correlated with the present-day ruins.

 

     

Hall of Philosophy - Hadrian’s Villa Marittimo theater -  Hadrian’s Villa


One of the most striking and best preserved parts of the Villa are a pool and an artificial grotto which were named Canopus and Serapeum, respectively.   Canopus was an Egyptian city where a temple (Serapeum) was dedicated to the god Serapis. However, the architecture is Greek influenced (typical in Roman architecture of the High and Late Empire) as seen in the Corinthian columns and the copies of famous Greek statues that surround the pool. One anecdote involves Serapeum and its peculiarly-shaped dome. A prominent architect of the day, Apollodorus of Damascus, dismisses Hadrian's designs, comparing the dome on Serapeum to a "pumpkin". The full quote is "Go away and draw your pumpkins. You know nothing about these [architectural] matters." Once Hadrian became emperor, Apollodorus was exiled and later put to death.

An interesting structure in the Villa is the so-called "Maritime Theatre". It consists of a round portico with a barrel vault supported by pillars. Inside the portico was a ring-shaped pool with a central island. During the ancient times the island was connected to the portico by two drawbridges. On the island sits a small Roman house complete with an atrium, a library, a triclinium and small baths. The area was probably used by the emperor as a retreat from the busy life at the court.

The villa utilises numerous architectural styles and innovations. The area has an extensive network of underground tunnels. The tunnels were mostly used to transport servants and goods from one area to another. The paths and roads above ground were reserved for more high-ranking residents of the Villa. Domes and barrel vaults are used extensively. The domes of the steam baths have circular holes on the apex to allow steam to escape. This is reminiscent of the Pantheon, also built by Hadrian.

In 1998 the remains of the monumental tomb of Antinous, or a temple to him, were discovered at the Villa.
   

     

Statues lining the canopus - Hadrian’s Villa Fountain and garden of  Villa d'Este

 

From this astonishing archaeological site we will head towards Tivoli where we can admire its fountains and gardens.   Famous from the early Roman era, it was highly-regarded for its thermal waters and baths and also for its location which expands throughout the entire narrow valley near the Aniene River, also known as the Teverone.


Tivoli is also known for its other famous attraction…Villa d’Este.   This villa was designed for the governor Cardinal Ippolito II d'Este.   Before being confiscated as his residence, the property had been a Benedictine convent.   The villa is decorated with 500 fountains and gardens of rare beauty!!!

 

    

Neptune fountain - Villa-d'Este A Hundred fountains - Villa-d'Este

 

Top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cerveteri

 


Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia
The necropolises of Tarquinia and Cerveteri are masterpieces of creative genius.  Tarquinia's large-scale wall paintings are exceptional both for their formal qualities and for their content, which reveal aspects of life, death, and religious beliefs of the ancient Etruscans.
 

Cerveteri shows in a funerary context the same town planning and architectural schemes used in an ancient city.    The two necropolises constitute a unique and exceptional testimony to the ancient Etruscan civilisation, the only urban type of civilisation in pre-Roman Italy.    Moreover, the depiction of daily life in the frescoed tombs, many of which are replicas of Etruscan houses, is a unique testimony to this vanished culture.
 

Many of the tombs of Tarquinia and Cerveteri represent types of buildings which no longer exist in any other form. The cemeteries, replicas of Etruscan town planning schemes, are some of the earliest existing in the region.
 

     

The round tumuli stand close together.   Their round basic-wall is carved out of the rock by the metre.

Over that, a tumuli of earth is heaped up.  Only one narrow dead-way leads to the single tombs

.

Cerveteri or Kaisra to the Etruscans dates back to the 11th century as proven by the archæological digs that uncovered dwelling areas and necropolises.  This Etruscan centre underwent a long period of growth and was at its apogee around the 6th century BC.  Thanks to contact with Grecian culture and business dealings with the Phœnicians.   This led to a pyramidal power structure with the aristocracy holding the reins. The settlement also had close ties with Carthage and together in 540 BC, they fought the Focese (Greeks) in the battle of the Sardinian Sea winning their place in the history books.

 

From the 5th century onwards, things began to go wrong and over time, these led to the settlement’s decline.   First and foremost was the growing conflict with the Greeks followed by the breaking off of trade with Italy.   The area came more and more under the influence of the Romans during the 3rd and 2nd centuries.    A highly oppressive regime reigned in the Middle Ages and the ancient Kaisra suffered an attack by the Saracens.   This led a gradual abandonment of the area and as a consequence, the area was further impoverished due the land being left uncultivated.    Malaria in the 12th century drove many of the remaining residents to find healthier places to live.

 

Cerveteri is the main Etruscan archæological site and is located in a fabulous site between the sea and the mountains not far from the capital city and other main towns.  The journey between the historic centre and the necropolises bears witness to a rich and varied mediæval past that can be clearly seen in the locality that is brimming with reminders of other times.
 

     

Tomb of The Augurs  530 - 480 BCE Detail from the Tomb of The Olympiads


Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri
These are the Etruscan Necropolises of Banditaccia that extend over a distance of about 10 km (6 miles).  They house four hundred burial sites over a period spanning from the 8th to the 2nd centuries BC.  From the point of view of developments in instrumentation and increased architectural awareness, such a wide time span has greatly helped studies of the tombs that are researching the social and urban evolution of the site.
 

One of the most striking characteristics is the way the paths are laid out in block formation, much like any town. There are numerous circular burial mounds dug from the tufacous surface.  These mounds contain an inner burial chamber accessed by a corridor.  The funeral mounds followed the design of Etruscan dwellings.
 

     

Necropoli di Banditaccia Tomba dei Relievi - internal

 

Via degli Inferi is the main pathway separating the various burial areas.  One of the most interesting tombs to see is the Tomba dei Rilievi that dates back to the 4th century BC.  It houses stuccoes that depict events, animals and objects that were used in day-to-day life. The tomb is of single chamber construction with partitions, balconies, columns and spaces assigned for graves.  Also well-worth noting are the Tombe dei Capitelli, dei Scudi and delle Sedie, delle Cinque Sedie and dell’Alcova.

 

     

Tomb dell'Alcova - internal Tomb dei Capitelli - internal

 

Tomba dell’Alcova is made up of a single square chamber and dates back to the 4th century BC.

Tomba dei Capitelli is completely dug out from the tufaceous surface and an access corridor leads to two small chambers plus a square central room that has three rooms at its end. The tomb dates back to the 6th century BC.
Tomba delle Cinque Sedie has the same type of interior layout with seats and footstools but in this case there are five of them also bearing statues. These statues had the role of welcoming the dead to the afterlife with a banquet.

Tomba dei Scudi e delle Sedie houses six beds with pillows carved from the tufa. These were intended for the bodies of men as women were buried in sarcophagi. There are also high-backed seats and footstools where two terracotta statues rested.

Tomba della Capanna is the second oldest tumulo of Cerveteri - 680-670 a.C.

 

     

     
Tomba delle Cinque Sedie Tomba dei Scudi e delle Sedie   Tomba della Capanna

 

Top

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Tarquinia

 

 

Tarquinii (Etruscan Tarchnal) is said to have been already a flourishing city when Demaratus of Corinth brought in Greek workmen. It was the chief of the twelve cities of Etruria, and appears in the earliest history of Rome as the home of two of its kings, Tarquinius Priscus and Tarquinius Superbus.   From it many of the religious rites and ceremonies of Rome are said to have been derived, and even in imperial times a collegium of sixty haruspices continued to exist there.  The people of Tarquinii and Veii attempted to restore Tarquinius Superbus to the throne after his expulsion.


In 358 BCE the citizens of Tarquinii captured and put to death 307 Roman soldiers; the resulting war ended in 351 with a forty years' truce, renewed for a similar period in 308. When Tarquinii came under Roman domination is uncertain, as is also the date at which it became a municipality; in 181 BCE its port, Graviscae (mod. Porto Clementino), in an unhealthy position on the low coast, became a Roman colony. It exported wine and carried on coral fisheries.  Nor do we hear much of it in Roman times; it lay on the hills above the coast road. The flax and forests of its extensive territory are mentioned by classical authors, and we find Tarquinii offering to furnish Scipio with sailcloth in 195 BCE.   A bishop of Tarquinii is mentioned in 456.

 

     

Tomb of The Augurs  530 - 480 BCE Detail from the Tomb of The Olympiads

 

The original site of the Etruscan city of Tarquinia, known as the "Civita", is on the long plateau to the north of the current town. The two coexisted for most of the early middle ages, with Tarquinia dwindling to a small fortified settlement on the "Castellina" location, and the more strategically placed Corneto (possibly the "Corito" mentioned in Roman sources) growing progressively to become the major city of the lower Maremma sea coast, especially after the destruction of the port of Centumcellae (modern Civitavecchia).  The last historic references to Tarquinia are from around 1250, while the name of Corneto was changed to Tarquinia in 1934. Reversion to historical place names (not always accurately), was a frequent phenomenon under the Fascist Government of Italy as part of the nationalist campaign to evoke past glories.

 

Detail of the Tomb of The Augurs

 

It is an often ignored fact that Italy had quite a significant civilisation before the Roman times. The Etruscans were the occupiers of the land, and have left few monuments that survived until nowadays.  Etruscan tombs are among these monuments.  And observing the drawing and painting of these tombs reveals a lot about Etruscan way of life.
 

• One Etruscan tomb shows two wrestlers, one of whom has lifted the other from the ground, to the accompaniment of the flute-player who is standing between the two groups. This and many other Etruscan paintings confirm that the Etruscans made their boxers perform to the sound of the flute.    Flute-playing was so popular that masters scourged their slaves and caused their cooks to work in the kitchen to the sound of the flute; and the Romans adopted the Etruscan tradition and gave their flute-players a recognized position in the community. The flute-players left Rome in disgust and went in a body to Tibur, and the only device the Romans could think of was to make the excellent fellows drunk and cart them back to Rome, where the citizens made haste to confirm the ancient privileges of the flute-players and to add several new ones in order to make the awakening more pleasant.

 

     

 Probably a painter of the Ionian school.

Tomb of the Bulls  - circa 560 BCE

Tale of Achilles and Troilus from Greek Mythology

Tomb of the Bulls

 

• In another tomb, an equestrian procession begins and is continued on the back wall to the central false door.   Four young naked horsemen, some of them with staves in their hands, are received by a naked youth who carries a palm-branch over his shoulder.   Apart from the nakedness, which must be attributed to the influence of Greek art, this equestrian procession is genuinely Etruscan.   The equestrian procession is presumably the preliminary to a horse-race.  The nobles of Etruria were celebrated for their race-horses and often sent their chariot-teams to the games in early Rome.

 

     

 Fresco in Etruscan tombe Flute player

 

Dancers appear in a number of Etruscan tomb-paintings, and abandon themselves to their gambols with a frenzy which might seem incompatible with death and entombment. In the Tomba del Morto at Corneto, dating from the same period, we find traces of a pirouetting dancer close to the couch of the dead and the lamenting mourners; the dance was thus as important as the funeral lament. The finest representations of Etruscan mourning dancers are found in the Tomba del Triclinio, which dates from the beginning of the fifth century B.C. 

 

On each wall three female and two male dancers are seen among trees; singing birds appear in the foliage. The male dancers play the lyre and the flute; the dancing-girls have castanets and the foremost a strap or chaplet with bells over her shoulder. Similar chaplets with bells are often seen hanging on the walls in pictures representing the symposia in honour of the dead, and bear witness to the childish predilection of the Etruscans for gipsy-like noise and merry-making. The most beautiful dancing-girl, however, in any Etruscan tomb is the 'bella ballerina di Corneto', discovered on a wall in the Tomba Francesca Giustiniani.

 

     

Tomba delle Leonesse Tale of Achilles and Troilus from Greek Mythology

     

Tomba dei Leoni Depinti

left: Detail of the ray ceiling  -  right: room with two large baskets dug out from the tufaceous surface


it’s a good centre for visiting the Etruscan remains.    It is an easily visited village in Italy's northern Lazio region, only 20 kms north of Civitavecchia.   The tombs are on the ouskirts of town. There is also an archaeological museum a short walk away in the town of Tarquinia.   

 

The approach to Tarquinia is exciting.   You are immediately outside the walls and if you pass through, you come immediately to Piazza Cavour where the National Museum is situated in the 15th century Palazzo Vitelleschi, a very picturesque building.

Inside is what is probably the best collection of Etruscan remains outside of Rome.  Some of the paintings are awesome and the pottery and metal artefacts are of top quality. Some of the jewellery is truly intricate.

 

     

The Tomb of the Jugglers Tomb of Hunting and Fishing

 

Tomba Caccia e Pesca  - Second room (burial chamber):
Main wall: there are two scenes, one on the fronton and another on the lower part of the wall.  At this point a hollow has been dug, almost certainly after the painter had finished his work; in fact the hunting and fishing scene has been cut into.

In the pediment this hollow was perhaps designed for a cinerary urn. Fronton: a banquet scene is represented. To the right a servant with a vase approaches a stamnos (crater). The servant is going to draw wine to bring to the banquet.   By the crater other pottery can be seen.
 
In the center of the banquet a Heptachord can be seen and on the cline a man and a woman; the man holds a kylix; the woman has white skin and the man has red skin.    There is pronounced disproportion between the size of natural elements (birds) and the people, a typical feature of the Ionian school.

 

_______________________________

 

The market area in the street around the Piazza dei Caduti The Piazza del Plebiscito has a very high clocktower and the municipal building, which is housed in the 15th century Palazzo dei Prori.   This is beautifully floodlit.   The Piazza San Lorenzo, which contains the Cathedral and the13th century Palazzo dei Papi is surprisingly quiet, though architecturally very fine.


Main sights:

 

Etruscan necropolises, with some 6,000 tombs, 60 of which include wall paintings.
National Museum, with a large collection of archaeological findings. It is housed in the Renaissance Palazzo Vitelleschi, begun in 1436 and completed around 1480-1490
Church of Santa Maria di Castello (1121-1208), with Lombard and Cosmatesque influences. The façade has a small bell-tower and three entrances. The interior has a nave and two aisles, divided by massive pilasters with palaeo-christian capitals and friezes. Noteworthy are also the rose-window in the nave and the several marble works by Roman masters.
Cathedral, once in Romanesque-Gothic style but rebuilt after the 1643 fire, has maintained from the original edifice the 16th century frescoes in presbitery, by Antonio del Massaro.
Church of San Giacomo and Santissima Annunziata, showing different Arab and Byzantine influences.
• small church of San Martino (12th century).
• church of St. John the Baptist (12th century), with an elegant rose-window in the simple façade.
Communal Palace, in Romanesque style, begun in the 13th century and restored in the 16th.
• numerous medieval towers, including that of Dante Alighieri.
Palazzo dei Priori. The façade, remade in Baroque times, has a massive external staircase. The interior has a fresco cycle from 1429.
• Gothic-Romanesque church of San Pancrazio.

 

     

Tomba delle Leonesse

Sacofago


Although the medieval sights of both
Viterbo and Tarquinia are very good and in places even spectacular, this slot must go to the necropolis at Tarquinia.  It is very different from that at Cerveteri.   There are the wonderful painted tombs stretching back at least to the 7th century BC.  Of course they aren’t in pristine condition.   It is several centuries since the first ones were discovered and they have suffered pollution and pilfering.  Some of the best painting is in museums in Rome or Tarquinia itself.   However what remains is more than sufficient to justify the inclusion of the Necropolis in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites.

 

     

Palazzo Papale - Viterbo

Palazzo Papale

 

The Pelegrino area of Viterbo is special indeed.    Part is fortunately pedestrianised so that you can stroll and look in peace.    There are the narrow streets and staircases typical of older Italian towns and cities but the area has more than its share of towers, arcaded balconies and external staircases on buildings.  The Piazza San Peligrino, in the heart of the area, is just about the same now as in the 14th century when it was built.  

 

 

Home   •     Back   •    Top