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Friuli
Venezia-Giulia is a
region in the North-east of Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia borders the region of Veneto
to the west, the republics of Austria and Slovenia to the north and east, and the
Adriatic Sea to the south. Its capital is Trieste
(Slovenian: Trst; German: Triest).
Friuli-Venezia Giulia is divided into four provinces: Gorizia,
Pordenone, Trieste and Udine
The
geographical complexity of Friuli-Venezia Giulia - around eight thousand square kilometres of alps, limestone plateau, alluvial plain and shelving coastlands - is mirrored in its social diversity.
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The mountainous north is ethnically and linguistically Alpine; the old peasant culture of Friuli, though now waning, still gives a degree of coherence to the area south of the mountains;
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Udine seems Venetian, and
Grado , slumbering in its Adriatic lagoons, Byzantine-Venetian;
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while
Aquileia
, a few kilometres north of
Grado, is still redolent of its Roman and early Christian
past.
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Trieste
itself, the regional capital, is a Habsburg city, developed with Austrian capital to be the empire's great southern port.
In spirit and appearance it is central European, more like Ljubljana in Slovenia than anywhere else in the region with the possible exception of Gorizia.
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Park and Caslte - Miramare |
If one thing unites the different parts of the region, it's how far removed they are from the conventional image of Italy, a remoteness that intensifies the further east you travel. This area has always been a bridge between the Mediterranean world and central Europe - that hazy multinational entity which begins, according to
Eric Newby at least, at Monfalcone, north of Trieste.
It has been invaded - sometimes enriched, often laid waste - from east and west and north, by the
Romans, Huns, Goths, Lombards, Nazis and even the
Cossacks.
Venice in its heyday controlled the coast and plain as far as
Udine;
Napoleonic France succeeded the Venetian
Republic, to be supplanted in turn by the Habsburgs.
Earlier last century the region saw some of the fiercest fighting of
World War I on the Carso (the plateau inland from Trieste), where artillery shells splintered the limestone into deadly shrapnel and the hills are still scarred with trenches.
Vast war memorials and ossuaries punctuate the landscape: the bones of
60,000 soldiers lie at Oslavia, near Gorizia;
100,000 at Redipuglia; 25,000 in the
Udine ossuary.
There was less loss of life in
World War II, but just as much terror. Fuelled by widespread and long-standing
anti-Slavism, Italian Fascism in Trieste
was especially virulent, and the city held Italy's only death camp.
One of the strangest sideshows of the war was staged north of
Udine: Cossack troops, led by White Russian officers, made an alliance with the Nazis and invaded
Carnia, on the promise of a Cossack homeland among the Carnian mountains once the Reich was secure.
No more invading armies have taken this road, but the last border dispute between
Italy and Yugoslavia was not settled until the
1970s, and when neighbouring Slovenia became independent in June
1991 the border posts with Italy were the scene of brief but fierce confrontations between Slovene and Yugoslav troops.
Despite Italian fears, however, the fighting did not spill across the border.
The
local dialect, friulano , is undergoing something of an official revival - many road signs are
bilingual in Italian and friulano , while studies of the dialect's history and many local variants are published by the
Società Filologica Friulana in Udine. (Pier Paolo
Pasolini, who grew up in Casarsa, near Pordenone, wrote his early poetry in friulano).
Economically the region is in fairly good shape: Udine and Pordenone are thriving, while Trieste is a focus for container traffic and is becoming a centre of computer technology and electronics.
Tourism is growing too.
Increasing numbers of visitors, mostly Italian and German, are discovering places which almost rival the claims of the neighbouring Veneto, with none of the crowds or the cynical attitudes to tourists.
Notwithstanding it's post-industrial atmosphere,
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Miramare
sea-gulls |
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Miramare's
park |
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Trieste
makes a good base for walking trips into the extraordinary, cave-riven landscape of the Carso, with the option of a day at one of the purpose-built beach resorts along the
Triestina Riviera - which isn't as glamorous as it
sounds, but the castle and park of Miramare,
certainly are.
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Udine, with its beautiful Venetian centre and excellent art collections, is within easy reach to the north, as is tiny
Cividale del Friuli
, which preserves a picturesque historic centre perched on the
gorge of the Natisone, as well as some fascinating Lombard remains.
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The archeologically minded will head straight for
Aquileia, however, which has some of the most important Roman and early Christian remains in Italy, and is fifteen minutes from the lagoon resort of
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Grado, which conceals a tiny early Christian centre amid the beach hotels.
Further north, towards the Austrian border,
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the
Carnia
is struggling to develop itself as a rival to the Dolomites for skiing and hiking, though in truth it has little over its neighbour other than peace and quiet.
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Trieste
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Piazza
dell'Unità d'Italia - Trieste |
Among
the most interesting places to see in Trieste are: the famous place "Piazza
Libertà" with its beautiful neoclassical palaces "Palazzo
Comunale", "Palazzo della Prefettura" (by
architect Artmann), "Palazzo del Lloyd" (by
architect Ferstel); "Palazzo della Borsa"
on the homonymous square "Piazza della Borsa"; "Canal
Grande" built in 1756 in order to allow boats to
unload goods in the center of the city; the two castles: "Castello
di San Giusto" and "Castello di Miramare".
As regards its religious properties there are many churches
belonging to different religions:among which "Cattedrale
di San Giusto", "Chiesa di
Sant'Antonio","Chiesa di San Nicolò",
"Chiesa di San Spiridione", the
Synagogue and the Evangelic Church.
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