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Other Tour Suggestions           Friuli Venezia Giulia

                                       

 

 

 

Friuli Venezia-Giulia is a region in the North-east of Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia borders the region of Veneto to the west, the republics of Austria and Slovenia to the north and east, and the Adriatic Sea to the south.  Its capital is Trieste (Slovenian: Trst; German: Triest).

Friuli-Venezia Giulia is divided into four provinces: Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste and Udine

 

The geographical complexity of Friuli-Venezia Giulia - around eight thousand square kilometres of alps, limestone plateau, alluvial plain and shelving coastlands - is mirrored in its social diversity.   

  • The mountainous north is ethnically and linguistically Alpine; the old peasant culture of Friuli, though now waning, still gives a degree of coherence to the area south of the mountains;

  • Udine seems Venetian, and Grado , slumbering in its Adriatic lagoons, Byzantine-Venetian; 

  • while Aquileia , a few kilometres north of Grado, is still redolent of its Roman and early Christian past.   

  • Trieste itself, the regional capital, is a Habsburg city, developed with Austrian capital to be the empire's great southern port.  In spirit and appearance it is central European, more like Ljubljana in Slovenia than anywhere else in the region with the possible exception of Gorizia. 

 

     

  Park and Caslte - Miramare

 


If one thing unites the different parts of the region, it's how far removed they are from the conventional image of Italy, a remoteness that intensifies the further east you travel. This area has always been a bridge between the Mediterranean world and central Europe - that hazy multinational entity which begins, according to Eric Newby at least, at Monfalcone, north of Trieste.   It has been invaded - sometimes enriched, often laid waste - from east and west and north, by the Romans, Huns, Goths, Lombards, Nazis and even the Cossacks

 

Venice in its heyday controlled the coast and plain as far as Udine; Napoleonic France succeeded the Venetian Republic, to be supplanted in turn by the Habsburgs.    Earlier last century the region saw some of the fiercest fighting of World War I on the Carso (the plateau inland from Trieste), where artillery shells splintered the limestone into deadly shrapnel and the hills are still scarred with trenches.   Vast war memorials and ossuaries punctuate the landscape: the bones of 60,000 soldiers lie at Oslavia, near Gorizia; 100,000 at Redipuglia; 25,000 in the Udine ossuary

 

There was less loss of life in World War II, but just as much terror.  Fuelled by widespread and long-standing anti-Slavism, Italian Fascism in Trieste was especially virulent, and the city held Italy's only death camp.  One of the strangest sideshows of the war was staged north of Udine: Cossack troops, led by White Russian officers, made an alliance with the Nazis and invaded Carnia, on the promise of a Cossack homeland among the Carnian mountains once the Reich was secure.

 

No more invading armies have taken this road, but the last border dispute between Italy and Yugoslavia was not settled until the 1970s, and when neighbouring Slovenia became independent in June 1991 the border posts with Italy were the scene of brief but fierce confrontations between Slovene and Yugoslav troops.   Despite Italian fears, however, the fighting did not spill across the border. 


The local dialect, friulano , is undergoing something of an official revival - many road signs are bilingual in Italian and friulano , while studies of the dialect's history and many local variants are published by the Società Filologica Friulana in Udine. (Pier Paolo Pasolini, who grew up in Casarsa, near Pordenone, wrote his early poetry in friulano).

 

Economically the region is in fairly good shape: Udine and Pordenone are thriving, while Trieste is a focus for container traffic and is becoming a centre of computer technology and electronics. 

Tourism is growing too.  Increasing numbers of visitors, mostly Italian and German, are discovering places which almost rival the claims of the neighbouring Veneto, with none of the crowds or the cynical attitudes to tourists.   Notwithstanding it's post-industrial atmosphere, 

 

 

    

Miramare sea-gulls

Miramare's park

 

  • Trieste makes a good base for walking trips into the extraordinary, cave-riven landscape of the Carso, with the option of a day at one of the purpose-built beach resorts along the Triestina Riviera - which isn't as glamorous as it sounds, but the castle and park of Miramare, certainly are. 

  • Udine, with its beautiful Venetian centre and excellent art collections, is within easy reach to the north, as is tiny Cividale del Friuli , which preserves a picturesque historic centre perched on the gorge of the Natisone, as well as some fascinating Lombard remains. 

  • The archeologically minded will head straight for Aquileia, however, which has some of the most important Roman and early Christian remains in Italy, and is fifteen minutes from the lagoon resort of ...

  • Grado, which conceals a tiny early Christian centre amid the beach hotels.   Further north, towards the Austrian border, 

  • the Carnia is struggling to develop itself as a rival to the Dolomites for skiing and hiking, though in truth it has little over its neighbour other than peace and quiet. 

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Trieste

 

 

Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia - Trieste

 

Among the most interesting places to see in Trieste are: the famous place "Piazza Libertà" with its beautiful neoclassical palaces "Palazzo Comunale", "Palazzo della Prefettura" (by architect Artmann), "Palazzo del Lloyd" (by architect Ferstel); "Palazzo della Borsa" on the homonymous square "Piazza della Borsa"; "Canal Grande" built in 1756 in order to allow boats to unload goods in the center of the city; the two castles: "Castello di San Giusto" and "Castello di Miramare".

 


As regards its religious properties there are many churches belonging to different religions:among which "Cattedrale di San Giusto", "Chiesa di Sant'Antonio","Chiesa di San Nicolò", "Chiesa di San Spiridione", the Synagogue and the Evangelic Church.

 

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Aquileia

Aquileia was founded in 181 b.C. by the triumvirs Publius Scipio Nasica, Caius Flaminius and Lucius Manlius Acidinus as a Roman colony.   The first three thousand colonists, mainly from Sannio, occupied the area both to protect it from the invasions of Gallic tribes, and to provide the Roman army with an outpost to crush the proud hostility of the Istrian people.

   

Porto sul fiume Natissa - Aquileia Foro (Forum) - Aquileia

 

Soon the steady Roman territorial expansion dispensed Aquileia from its risky “front line” role in the conquest of the Eastern territories of Europe; this granted prosperity to the colony, that in the meantime had become chief town of the X Regio Venetia et Histria...

 

 

   

Basilica - Aquileia

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Grado is only a short distance from Aquileia, its charm exceeds the inimitable seaside life or the single tourist aspect.   Grado, like a rare peculiarity for a seaside centre, has a deep soul, seductive like its millenary origins, an enchantment that attract and gives emotions in every season. 

 

Grado today offers modern and hospitable structures and, its historical centre contains, like a magic casket, the splendour of the past.    In the historical and picturesque heart of the town, the roots of a thousand years old history emerge. 

 

 

    

Aerial view - Grado

Swimming pool - Grado

    

Harbour of Grado

Roman excavation

 

Grado was founded, indeed, when the inhabitants of Aquileia, who were fleeing from the impending threat of Attila’s Huns, found shelter on the island.   Its historical adventures, which are very complex and ancient, were closely knitted with those of Aquileia, long before the barbarians invasion through a centuries-old sanguinary fight for the supremacy among the patriarchate of Grado and that of Aquileia.   Then Grado history evolved related to that of the Serenissima.

 

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Our trip linking Gorizia and Redipuglia is rich of sites, districts and museums worth visiting, although the distance to be covered is rather short.   We therefore suggest to spend at least one day to have the opportunity to go back in time to the Middle Ages while visiting the Castle District (Borgo Castello) in Gorizia as well as to closely study the history of the 20th century and of the two world wars - WWI & WWII.  

Piazza Transalpina - Gorizia

In fact our trip includes museums, monuments and battlefields of the First World War, which was fought on the harsh Karst territory and along the valley of the river Isonzo, and enables us to see with our very eyes the consequences of the Second World War.

      

Castle - Gorizia View from the Castle

 

Where Gorizia's Cultural properties are concerned, the most interesting buildings to visit are:

The castle (11th century) Castello di Gorizia, symbol of the city, which holds a great collection of Renaissance, Baroque and eighteenth-century furniture, many paintings and sculptures and an important exhibition of pewter, potteries, halberds and armours;
the Cathedral (Duomo), recorded for the first time in a document dated 1296;
the church devoted to Saint Ignazio, Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio, started in 1654 by the Jesuits, the most important of Gorizia;


the churches Chiesa di Santo Spirito and Chiesa dell'esaltazione della Croce;
the fountain Fontana del Nettuno.

Among the palaces:
Palazzo Attems-Santa Croce (housing the City hall);
Palazzo Attems-Petzenstein;
Palazzo Lantieri;
Palazzo Coronini Cronberg;
Palazzo Cobenzi.

Regarding its environmental properties, the park on the river Isonzo "Parco fluviale dell'Isonzo e di Piuma" deserves to be visited.

Fogliano Redipuglia Among the principal places to visit: the Parish Church of S. Elisabetta in Fogliano, and the Parish Church of S. Giacomo Apostolo in Redipuglia; another very important religious building is the Church of S. Maria in Monte in Fogliano, built in 1521 by the Captain Teodoro Trivulzio da Borgomanero.

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Udine is a lively and dynamic city of art, which is to be found right in the heart of Friuli, halfway between the seaside and the mountains; this friendly town pays particular attention to culture, history, wine and food and modernity only enriches the territory’s well-rooted tradition.

 

 

 

     

Loggia del Lionello

Piazza della Libertà

 


The starting point for a visit of the town is the
Piazza della Libertà (Liberty Square), repeatedly indicated as “the most beautiful Venetian square on dry land”, whose most important and elegant element is the Loggia del Lionello, which is a splendid example of Gothic-Venetian style; in front of it the renaissance Loggia di San Giovanni can be found, a portico incorporating the Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower), under which, in the past, the main gate to the castle opened. The Castello (Castle), on the hill, is an important building and home to the Civic Museum, remarkable for its Parliament Hall with frescoes by Tiepolo, Grassi and Pomponio Amalteo; the main floor is occupied by the Galleria d’Arte Antica (Gallery of Ancient Art).

 

 

      

Piazza della Libertà

     From the gallery of the Casa della      Contadinanza - piazzale del castello

 


By way of the Via Mercatovecchio, full both of suggestive historical buildings and elegant and modern shops, one reaches the throbbing heart of the town: Piazza Matteotti, which was the first real square in Udine, and in the centre of which the fountain designed in 1543 by Giovanni da Udine, a pupil of Raffaello can be found.

Passing in front of the Palazzo del Comune (Municipal building) one arrives at the Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) where the majestic and sacred building, with its Latin cross formation, whose oldest parts date back to 1335, can be admired; next to the Cathedral, the Oratorio della Purità (Oratory of Purity) can be found where the fresco of the“Assunta", one of the Tiepolo’s masterpieces, is on show, however, bearing witness to the artist’s greatness is the
Palazzo Arcivescovile (Archbishop’s Palace) which hosts the Museo Diocesano (Diocesan Museum).

A visit to the
Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Modern Art Gallery) is recommended, where very interesting collections of 19th and 20th Century art are on show; the Gallery is also an important venue for exhibitions as is the central Chiesa di S. Francesco (Saint Frances’ Church).

                                                                           
       

 

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